Quote:
world's cheapest machine shop you've got there D! balancing, fully prepped rods, machining counterweights and journals or line boring all for only $350??? lol what's their number?
Sounds like youre getting double dragoned
Footscray engine reco services (ex- repco) they do the 20b into Kent ford blocks regularly for Caterhams, Locost and Formula Fords for many eons now.
Ask for "Steve" he has looked after Dad and I. Best look at the prices again the rods are sep priced. 350 for the machining of crankpins, counterweights and re-balancing is all Ive payed and willing to till I was given a cheaper "home machinist" contact recently.
Quote:
There is some seriously dubvious info in here bout weights of various engines. As someone who's done L series 1200s to death, I can tell you there is ZERO noticeable diffference to handling even for a 100% track car between an L16 with L18 crank and a 2100cc L20B or anything in between. You'd have to be the princess feeling a pea through 10 mattresses to notice it!
I think youre thinking full steel roll cage race setup? That is not really the case in discussion so like before you have to again consider the datto enthusiast who is asking for lightest oldskool engineerable combo possible.
The weights have been discussed extensively at OZdat in a thread with "Dave" and I at both ends we where off .5 kg in a couple of measurements not bad for interstate comparisons. The Z I weighed was equivalent to an L20b or over 50kgs and even one of the best blokes in porting an L series (first name of Mark to those who know him :)
has offered me a super rare super thick walled L20B from x-raying countless L blocks since the 70s only came ran into 2 of these babies but had to turn it away when it tipped the scales at over 50kgs.
With an all out race car 10k or 15k makes no difference. especially when many drivers these days venture into the 30+kg round the gut territory. I prefer my gut like my
datsuns. Im not alone many see less weight is free power.
Don, there is nothing complicated about an LZ18et with LPG certainly compared to a spun bearing cr14de with quads and custom gbox or even your recent dud GX motor. Z18et with non counterweighed crank has evolved into the common tag of "LZ18ET" for over 2 decades thanks to the better L20b full counterweighed crank.
To call it a stroker with unreliability is off the mark as L16 w/ L20b crank has been common practice since Freddy Mercury revealed he goes 3 ways.
86mm stroke is nothing compared to an L20b grunter (96mm stroke z24 crank L20b)
2. The savings of a custom manifold can also be done to the the Z18et so theres is SFA in that idea.
Quote:
Don't forget that the Z will have to lean the other way to the L series for inlet manifold clearence. That means Z sump, brackets and accessories. Once you are talking all that gear under the bonnet, 10KG isn;t that big a deal. You can save most of that in a custom exhaust manifold instead of the cast iron job.
This is not even an issue when using an L block, angle is not an issue w/ Zet head.
If he chooses to go Z angle then its a great way 2 have good long runner inlets.
Anyway with custom mounts the choice is endless.
Quote:
Good luck, it's a realy nice car, it would be a shame to see it hacked up just for an extra 30HP.
Hacked up? Stuarts Z18et doesnt look that way at all which cant be said for your previous collection of 120ys

glad you look after you 1Ks better.
As for 30hp extra consider same budget spent on a z18et as you would on an A15.
1. Tuned stock manifold LPG Z18et with gt28rs VERSUS same money on worked an A15.. the result LZ18et with double the power, the reliabilty and not forgetting the most mportant strength of the LZ18ET ...."Massive Torque"