I AM USELESS WITH ELECTRICS!

I have some after market headlights in my B10 that would blow the fuse when I would activate the high beam setting whilst having just the parker lamps on (headlights off).

However, when running with the lights on, I can switch between 'High' or 'Low' and have no fuses blow at all. It was only if I ran high beam whilst having my parkers on.

I fitted a relay setup so the lights would illuminate better but now the fuse blows when I have the headlights on AND on 'High' beam. Low beam still works fine and they illuminate.

High beam isn't essential but I'd like to have the issue sorted so that I don;t have to keep changing the fuses each time I knock the Hi/Lo setting.


So;


No relays but aftermarket halogens
Parker Lights On + Low Beam setting = Fuse fine
Parker Lights On + High Beam setting= Fuse blown
Headlights On + High or Low beam = fuse fine.


Relay setup & aftermarket halogens
Parker Lights On + low Beam setting = fuse fine
Parker Lights On + high Beam setting = fuse fine
Headlights On + low beam = fuse fine
Headlights On + high beam = fuse blown

Fuse = 25amp
Parker Lights and Headlights share the same two stage pull-out switch.

I think that's what it works out like, if anyone can help that would be much appreciated. I haven't had a decent look at everything but I will shortly.

Shouldn't that be a 15A fuse? The B110 uses a 15A for head lamps.

Anyways, I had this happen once. The T/S switch was slightly loose. Took of the column surround and tightened the screws holding it to the column.

Of course there are other potential causes, but you might just check if the T/S seems a tiny bit loose.

What do you mean by T/S? Toggle switch?

Edit: oh right two stage switch (duh).

I'll have a quick look, what other potential causes are there?

Should I check the hi/lo switch as well? Could this be an issue?

Could be sounds Like something us shirting it at the Parker setting. The halogens tend to use a higher amp fuse I think. If it blows on 25amp then no chance on a 15 amp.

I'd deginately be running a relay and fuse to protect the stock wiring. Check the halogens, they may even need a 30 amp fuse!

It happens when high beam switch on so I'd check the colomb toggle as well as the head light switch, it's sounds like it's between there.


I'm useless with elecs but nutting out my issue too lol.

Thanks Mik, Sounds like you know more than me.

I don't even know what the relays do, just had the loom sitting in some parts and figured I ought to fit it!

I'll try another switch if I have one and go from there.

By T/S i meant Turn Signal switch. The B110 has the Hi/Lo switch built into the T/S switch. Maybe the B10 doesn't have that feature.

You don't want to put larger fuses in than specified, because when there is a short, higher current will flow before the fuse blows, and it could damage the wiring.

A relay won't fix this problem, although it can help other issues.

Chris, you need to find the short before you start fiddling with relays and making the wiring even more complicated.

Well in the b110 when first click of lights should only be low beam and push t/s and should be parkers, pull nob to second click should be parkers and low beam, then push t/s should be hi beam!
Chris can you explain how the thou's setup is!?
Also what type of globes and what wattage they are! It could be just an overload in the circuit because you have like a 60/110wat globe ect
Also when you say you have setup a relay and still have problems have you also put the hi beam through a relay as they are a separate feed!

It sounds like a dogs breakfast. How many relays are there? What is the wattage of the high beam? Which fuse is it blowing? In the orig little box or an external one?

Switch is fine and clean as a whistle no signs of a potential short.

The problem exists with the factory wiring but I'll have a look at the wattage on the globes now.

Original fuse box and it's the second fuse down from the top of the box.

Looks like B10 combines headlamps and all other lights on the same circuit, thus the 30A fuse. B110 more sensibly splits them into two smaller circuits so that if one blows, at least some lights are still working on your car and blokes won't crash into your dark car...