hey simon - I don't have specific experience with this as far as gearboxes go, but I have seen (I wasn't the one doing the welding, but I did see it done) heads that were badly cracked (and worth the hassle of trying to fix) and warped, heated and slowly straightened, then die grinded the cracks open, pre-heated the whole lot, welded the gaps, then 'peened' the living S#|7 out of it.. Obviously i understand 'why' that would be done, to compact/make dense the welded area and help to prevent/address any new cracks from too high a tension from starting. But this is something where there's a LOT of alloy it is being welded/mended/added to, so it is far more dense, and the peening won't 'hurt' the other parts. But with a gearbox, it's thinner all round, so I wonder if peening it would actually _cause_ new cracks to start (possibly unseen, until they grow/travel when in the car and in use). Any insight you could offer there?

i wouldnt see how peening would be any benefit on a gear box housing. i know it adds stength to the join and surrounding areas, but the pre heating welding and cooling process would do similar..... think of that cryogenix freezing they do for similar hardening john.

if it adds strength do it but as you said, thinner alloy, more likely to add stress cracks.

wos going to learn how to sand cast?

Could also use some alloy curved flat plates to strengthen.

Now to find some 60 series bellhousings or just use auto ones.

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Hello D and G

durafix and epoxy looks like a good choice to me again!!
looking at those who have done it for years of racing abuse
Does anyone stand corrected??? :)

Sounds like a great idea. But what kind of expoy is used?