If class rules or government rules do not forbid it, go with the KA24E (D21/D22 truck engine). It has more peak power than CA18DE (140hp vs 131hp), and almost as much low-RPM power as the CA18DET (152 lb-ft vs 166 lb-ft). It will be simpler, easier, less expensive, and more reliable than the turbo engine. Complete setups with engine, 5-speed ECU and wiring go for $600-$800 in USA.

If you want more power than stock, you can turbo the KA. But it's probably easier to start with the CA18DET and turn up the boost.

again - re-iterating the 'if the govco rules allow it' as the condition, the datsun L series 4s are not a bad option either. They aren't astronomically heavier and you can get a realistic 180bhp at the flywheel with streetable longevity (higher power levels definitely possible, but the higher you spin any engine, the shorter its lifespan).

If you don't mind a shorter engine life, then the 12a or 13b mazda rotary engines with an extend or at most bridge port (they have different names elsewhere, basically anything short of a full monster port, or further still a peripheral port, tend to have 'ok-ish' longevity and certainly produce power.

If you have to take it long distances though, I reckon the ca18det, which only runs full boost if and when you want it, and otherwise doesn't need to rev ridiculously, and can work with 3.9 diff gears very well - well that will likely last the longest. Assuming each was in as new condition to start with.

Obviously buying a second-hand 'anything' will be subject to condition, and on that front, occasionally you find things like the L series in someone's family car that they only drove to church and back or whatever. Relatively speaking, it's harder to find a ca18det or mazda rotary that has been exceptionally conservatively drivne and immaculately maintained.


Oh - and that's a nice clean coupe mate!

Thanks for the help guys

I would like to keep the parts in the nissan family, what concerns me about the 2.4litre engine is that its a truck engine so I'm not sure how the engine will ref or be on the quater mile. I see the SR20DET engine looks quite good, even the non turbo one. but my option are open

Quote:
This stock "truck" engine will power a 1200 to muscle car territory. 14-second quarter miles.

How does it rev? What does that matter? It makes max power at 5,600 RPM with the stock cam.

The SR20DE will be slower - it is a smaller engine. And all the upgrades you can do to the SR or L-series can also be done to the KA. Remember, the KA24E is a twelve-valve engine, so it's no slouch and was also fitted to S13 240SX. The KA24DE from the later 240SX is even better, but only at higher RPMs.

Holden's use a truck engine - its called a ls6 v8- 6.0 ltr v8 in a sedan body. Ford and chrysler do too lol

Personally id go with whatever has a timing chain than a belt, so many chain engines going strong over 40 years here, stock chains with no sign of stretch or issues

Well except Nissan OHC chains ... they are not the most durable ...

well the KA24 it is then... lol makes more sense now, and it will be alot cheaper this side of the world, what tranny can I use with this engine

In general you'd look to whatever boxes came behind them standard. I'd say at a guess a 71 series would be warranted. You might need to massage (or even cut and weld in a new section) the transmission hump/tunnel to clear the bigger boxes, and in turn that can make it difficult to retain the factory heater (not 100% definite mind you) due to space limitations.

That said, there's really no way around it - if you are moving to a motor with (literally) double the torque or more than an a series engine (at least comparing factory std of each motor) - it's one of those things that is practically unavoidable.

Yes, the old KA-series came with a 71-series gearbox. It will fit into a 1200 automatic tunnel (or 610 tunnel) and still retain the heater.

The length is long, so you might consider a stumpy gearbox instead.

The only other upgrade required is a stronger differential. You could use a 1200/1400 bakkie rear axle, but it is marginal behind a 2.4 liter. Better to swap in something stronger although for road racing lighter is better.

You don't need to upgrade the brakes because your 1200 won't weigh anymore with two passengers and larger Nissan four-cylinder than it does with four passengers and an A12. But your government may require it. And brake upgrades are a good idea even if you have an A12. And of course for racing you probably already have upgraded the brakes.