I payed around 300 for my manifold then had another member build the pipe to Inlet, and used a 1 1/2 su was good! I ran a t25 .64 rear spooled at line 2600rpm and revved to over 7g was stock a14 with h75 head on 8psi was fun and was never tuned right but should have played more with it, you'll be looking at around $1000~1500 if you get someone to do most of it (mate rates) inc fuel setup! If I was to do it again I'd get a log shaped inlet made to suit turbo outlet ect to save the big inlet loop I had

Whats the hot tip on getting my hands on a decent manifold?

superfatto what was your T25 front AR

your talk about the H75 head made me wonder what is on my A14.

I just checked, its a H89.

what does this mean? I see in wiki thats most likely a B310 A14?

will this be better for this bigger turbo?

A friend of mine is pretty turbo savvy. He has played around with a lot of them on 4wds.
He is convinced that this turbo is too way too big and a waste of time. He thinks I'd be better off using something off say a Charade turbo or TX3 laser. He simply said a old 1.4 wont have enough exhaust gas to drive a turbo off a modern 2L. Logical argument...

I've been thinking about how to reply to this all day.
Without wishing to insult your friend even considering a turbo off a Charade shows to me that he really doesn't quite grasp just how much air/ fuel these little motors actually flow.
As I said before I actually ended up using the biggest T2 available off an 1800SSS Bluebird and that was still too small. That started spooling seriously at about 2800 and would rev through to 7500 no problems.
Considering the Japs are renowned for putting too smaller turbos on cars I honestly think that you should have a leap of faith and just try what you've got.
Remember too that your application is vastly different from some-one with a 4wd, so what if it boosts a little late. The thrust back in the seat as you watch the speedo climb and grab gears some would say is better than sex and you'll more than pick it up in the top end!
Interesting what Sikyne is saying about the exhaust manifold. My experience using a 'J' has been really good but if anyone would know Simon is the man.
8lbs boost, sensible spark and correctly fueled and you will have a great little powerplant. Go make it happen and remember plenty of pics so we can follow your journey.

Cheers
Dave

Look up the wiki between differences of H89 (closed chamber) which is superior head for performance to the H75 (open chamber)- Higher comp engines have been successful with bigger turbo on 6-8lbs boost so the A14 should with a .6X rear housing by the sounds of it since Nicks setup cam nicely at 2600rpm. Nick what was you front housing? You probably should go for the 1.75 inch SU or Stromberg for more fuel and air to feed the sucker as TopGear has done in the past and others, one in a datsun 1000 wagon is pushing 30psi with 1.75 inch SU and crude water injection which blew his boxes apart then upgrade to Escort 2ltr pinto 4 speed box cut and shut bellhousing and now the toyota T50.

A14 pistons are a little thicker up the top than the A15 pistons so a little more strength while rings are all pretty thick strong items for all A series.

To tell the truth it was that long ago I can't remember :)

thanks Guys

I went back to my turbo mate and challenged him with your comments Dave.
His response was pretty good.

He said doesnt matter what people say will work, I was referring to inefficiency. He then said its easy to prove, an engine has a max CFM which you can then plot against a compressor map.

We calc'd it using something along the lines of
CFM = RPM x CID/3456 divided by VE

(was last night over the phone so cant remember the exact numbers)
I do remember we used 1.4 liter engine @ 7000rpm and around 80% effiency

That resulted in around 250 CFM

he then plotted on a GT2560R, 60 comp ar and .6 rear

looked like this




I then sent through some of the dyno pics from other turbo A series off the site.

What do you know, if you look at them for about the first 4000 RPM there graphs are almost like a non turbo, then BAM

A bit of lag is a good thing mate, can drive around traffic off boost, keep the noise and fuel down then give it some stick and the party starts.

That graph your mate plotted doesnt have an 80 trim on the inlet trim.
So it would have more lag than the plotted graph suggests if thats the case.
Turbo is not an exact science, the expected can have totally different results.
Just go for it you can change the inlet anyway later if you need to but try it
and see how you go as suggested you never know you might like it.
Some engines on mild boost give better economy than big late boost.
A friend used a t25 from a saab on his 1300cc toyota corolla & went very well,
rpm redline stayed the same yet double the power and very responsive.
His was .48 A/R, 50 Trim, ex. .48 A/R, 60 Trim. with 1.75 su, 2.25 inch outlet.
The saab variable Jmac was talking about didnt come to Australia as far as
I have seen with the turbos if so maybe all done with variable manifolding.