Nickmitty - thanks for the information however I was referring to a turbo a series. The purpose of this post is to determine if I will be happy with the potential power output of a worked a series as id prefer to keep an original engine in there if possible.

If I decided to swap the engine over, I will be sticking with my original an of an LZ Hybrid and Im definetly not interested in putting a Toyota, Chrysler or Mitsubisbi motor into it. It would be a Datsun or Nissan engine only.

Fair call, A14/A15 Turbo would be the hot tip then, 5k should get you an injected setup.
Id be getting a custom plenum and turbo manifold built, intercooler, pulsar radiator, megasquirt or similar ecu and spend whats left over on a decent clutch and diff then skid the #OOPS#e outta it.

IS a $5k turbo injected setup going to get me the 150hp target or am I still going to struggle? Am I better off going with the original LZ Hybrid idea which is starting to look more appealing once I start adding up the hot parts to rebuild an A series.

150HP ate or atw?

All turbo engines need engineering for legality in Vic, so which ever turbo engine it wont matter but the A12 would be better on cheap stock gearboxes especially considering you said of only carrying some "IKEA" products in the back from time to time as the heaviest items, while the A15 would require at minimum:
60 series box going up to a T50 dellows or better a Simon "Wild Boar 71" box.

A well setup Turbo E85 fed A12 or bigger bore A12 can be setup by Simon either 150hp ate or atw, EFI would be best with E85 tuned properly by Simon has shown an A12 stocker with its over-engineer internals is all thats needed.
A15 usually have 2mm less piston height "meat" at the top compared to a12 & a14.

For your earlier Grandfather story stated, keeping the original A12 heart aside as a token or memento would be best for respect regardless what you choose to put in.

e85 stations everywhere now
http://www.gps-data-team.com/poi/aust ... nd=e85#Points_of_interest

Buck vs Practicality !! Forget the A15, that needs to be engineered. For half the price of engineering, you can get an A15 internals, throw the balance towards a better box and like D: said stroke it and waiver the engineering. 150 atw's is a big ask and quite achievable with a turbo, but as you said you want a streeter that you can casually drive down the road. And 150 ate would be a more realistic number to hit. I would guess 115 rhp - 120 rhp. That is no slug !! Been turbo, you'd get away with just a H165 as the top race cars run 1303cc and 150 hp with H165 diff (torque kills diffs) and thats more money saved. You should get away with a 60A (approx $800+) box if your nice, more money saved, but celica (approx $1350+) would be safer and practical for 2 reasons in my mind. It can handle abuse much more and been shorter gears, the turbo will kick in quicker. For the extra $$$ over the 60A its good insurance. 150 bhp, keep in mind you said streeter, is a different kettle of fish. Definitely more money on internals and I would say less engine life. And I also think alot less streetable. You will want better brakes and much better suspension to get that power to the ground ( more money). Alot of people forget cause a car with heaps more power and #OOPS#t suspension will get his butt kicked with a similar car with less hp and good suspension.... Now going for a different engine is practical in my eyes if your still demanding a 150 bhp+ streeter, ya mum can drive to the milk bar and back and still get up n go. But much much more money and aggravation. You will have to change all the running gear and engineer. You will get alot more engine life aswell... So in conclusion I'd stick to a more practical A12 stroker turbo and be content with 110 bhp to 120 bhp under budget that will have longer life and is streetable.

Both very good points and sound advice. Thanks.

I guess I need to be taken for a spin in a 150hp ate 1200 Ute and see if it puts a grin across my face. Any takers?

I am in negotiations at the moment about a setup that will most likely see me have everything I need for an LZ Hybrid and some for a decent price. If a deal can be struck I may just settle with that.

What's a LZ Hybrid ?? Can you explain in more detail ?? $5k would get you a good SR or Cad turbo and alot more streetable. Save a few bucks and get an old FJ. An old L series would even be cheaper again. Anything you stuff in there besides an A-series , you have to change everything anyway and cut everything up also. Is it a novelty thing or a method in ya madness ??

A12 is all that is needed for 150Hp ATW. They are cheap and everywhere. Id recommend the H89 head and double springs, a good cam and some ARP head studs.
Thats all that is needed for the power you are looking for.
Its probably about $1200 to put one of these together yourself. That includes all machining.
The new MS3 Pro ecu is out now, and is a very good thing. These are $1150 including a loom.
Costs would work out something like:
Engine $1200.
ECU $1100.
Ex Manifold $350.
In Manifold $500.(inc rail +fittings)
Injectors $200. (new seimens 600cc)
Fuel pump $210.(new bosch)
Sensors etc $300.(new 3bar delco,water&air temp,2xGT101`s for cam & crank triggers, and SH TPS)
New turbo $1100. (garret GT)

Extras $1000. For hoses, belts, fittings, exhaust, oil,filters etc.
----------
$5960
Heaps could be saved by using a SH turbo, making manifolds yourself and using used sensors and SH fuel pump. If you want to buy an SH ECU, Avoid Wolf, Microtech and anything older than about 10 year old unless its Motec.
A SH Motec would be fine ie, M4 or M48 (about $1000)
The new MS3 Pro is great value at $1100 tho.

BTW dont buy SH injectors.

Quote:

Tech Wiki - LZ Engine

Original LZ Engine I believe was a highly developed Works Competition Engine that was succeeded by the FJ. I doubt you or I will every see one in real life and I'm sure it would cost a small fortune or one of your extremities.

I was (sort or still thinking about) doing a mock-up if you like (i.e. "Hybrid").

"D" originally put me onto the idea and I have done a bit of research on multiple forums and it seems to be a nice package. Would consist of

L16 Block bored to 85mm
L20B Crank
L16 Rods
Z20E Pistons
Z18ET Timing Case, Head, Manifold and all turbo and injection gear.

1952cc and still retains L16 Block and numbers easy for engineering.

Quote:

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the reply. My ute already has the A12 in it so I'm not sure if your price of the $1200 included that engine itself or not? With that combination would the crank, rods and pistons be standard new items or would you bore it out and freshen it up at all?