I went to drive the ute yesterday only to find it had developed a miss like it was running on only two cyl. Changed and checked the plugs, points, dizzy cap, rotor and leads (lucky
I had spares ). But to no avail. Noticed that the resistor was very hot after a few minutes of running. Is this normal ? Anyway tilly is still running like a pig. Any thoughts ?

Craig

i noticed no one replied right away to your message so i'll try and help. but from here on dont listen to a word i
type.
a hot resistor is not good.
too much current = bad.
my mate had the same prob. in his corolla. eventually the coil would not work and he almost burnt the plugs.
i dont wanna write much else as i do not want to sound like i have nfi, which i do, but not as bad as it would make
me seem.

Check out your carb jets - may need to blow out the needle. Make sure carb is clean and functioning before you head back down
the electrical path.

I haven't read the reponses yet, but the resistor is supposed to be operating during normal operation. On start position on the ignition switch, the resistor is bypassed to make the coil
work a little harder during cranking. This produces a better spark. But the coil is not designed to run always on the full 14.4 volts, thus the ballast resistor. To give you an idea of how
tought resistors are, I use one on my EFI electric fuel pump to reduce the voltage to the pump, thus slow it, and make it quieter. It's still giving me enough pressure so that's not a
problem for fuel delivery. A pump draws some 5 amps which is a fair bit, and it only gets warm.
I'd think that you have a problem with excessive current draw on the coil side of the resistor. Stick a ampmeter inline with the resistor, and measure the current draw. Then do the same on
a correctly operating datto, or any car with a coil/resistor, and see the difference. It could be that the connection to the coil is corroded or something. But the best fix would be to put
a CA18DET in the old thing and do away with coils, distributors and plug leads forever :)..only kidding...

Chris.

The ballast resistor protects the points. On startup it is bypassed for a hotter spark during cranking. While running the resistor reduces the current accross the points.
If you bypass the resistor the points will burn rapidly.

I've seen a few coils explode because of faulty 'rewiring' of the ignition circuit that bypass the ballast resistor. But sure I guess the points could fry too. Never seen
the points have a problem, but I believe you.

Chris.

That is wise. I had a Datsun that would not run,I changed the coil,new distributor reluctor ,new pickup coil,even attempted to change the transistor unit ,but the expensive price kept me
from doing it,because my amateur curiosity and hour of reading my car books made me think about the electrical side of things. One day I decided to pull apart the carb. and bingo! this
carb was a piece of @#*&^%. missing weight.missing ball,broken powervalve,needless to say ,I learnt my lesson. A 32-36 weber took care of the nightmare. Might not be your case, but think
it over.