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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Quote:

D wrote:
crabsie lad you are a vain photoboy like I said son keep out of my build and learn some manners oh wait you dont learn them in your mainly facebook existence putting up photos of yourself posing like a metro princess. I suggest you stay in that world and keep a tally of your votes in your search for glamour & that feeling of grandeur you seek.

This was my build thread


hang on, didn't you just finish lecturing me about facebook stalking and bullying not being acceptable in this day and age D???

Posted on: 2013/11/2 6:45
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
Home away from home
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Wow, this takes me back to the old Dodgeman vs Funk days .......

Just like Cams officialdom at Bathurst hey Harry

Posted on: 2013/11/2 10:13
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Like I said crabs spread your teeny princess shots and cliches on your wanna be famous virtual world.

Harry wrote "Jeez! It just seemed strange that the plan was for a stock head, such a small cam, and either 4 carbs or 1."

It might be strange to you but since it will my first sleeved A series I need to just get it going run it in and make sure I can tune it easily so its not just sitting there waiting for the other parts to be finished. Later can upgrade as time and the ordered parts come back and permits. Nothing wrong asking questions but you still spread your tunnel vision assumptions, you could have asked why I was going this way, I would have gladly answered but you have a way of being a sarcastic hater that find everything strange or weird, you do need help for your control dramas, it must be a sad world you live trying to be mister know it all online.

Now can I continue my thread with all this behind us or you must continue with your assumptions and sarcasm?

Posted on: 2013/11/2 10:21
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
Home away from home
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From South East Brisbane
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Quote:

D wrote:
teeny princess shots and cliches


I don't understand where this idea of me being a Facebook metro faggot has come from. I resent Facebook a lot but it makes talking to like minded car people across the world and getting my photo's out there easier.

But I suppose unless my opinion on whatever subject matches yours I'll be a metro fb lover forever haha.

Posted on: 2013/11/2 10:27
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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What happened to leaving me alone like you stated crabsie? Did I touch a nerve petal? sorry but I didnt call you a Fxxx that was clearly your closet assumption. Hows your coca cola sponsorship is it making the world notice how unique you are? Facebookie lad do you hang your pants halve way down your knees like the poor discriminated and abused blacks that couldnt afford belts in the 30s thinking its actually a cool thing to do and show your chinese made designer underwear? I can go on but Id prefer to keep this diary of my project free from bigots and haters.
I actually love cars and yet Im not into advertising big corps across them thats for you and if that makes you like minded to other ankle panters with slaved minded activities thats you thing.

Now I post my details again for those that have missed what Im doing thanks to the merry go round haters.

Posted on: 2013/11/2 10:43
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Initial plan was 86mm stroke and 83mm bores but after having one of my A15 cranks butchered by a crank specialist that hired a moron to take over while he was on holidays and ending up with garbage. Ive decided to stay with the stock 82mm stroke and go for just bigger bores.

The plan now is
A15 block and winged gated sump
83mm or 83.5mm iron sleeves (see whats possible)
ca18de pistons (valve recesses to suit 8v)
ca18de rods (lightened & fully prepped)
Rods lengthened to 134mm (hopefully 135mm)
Oval port head stock cleaned up ports
(mazda Z twin cam is nice but not proven
or detailed enough for me to tackle it
would love to though would be crazy)
better valve springs for 7500rpm redline
GX style camshaft with more lift
Quad 48mm bike carbs custom mani or single 2.25 inch SU
http://users.tpg.com.au/ntome44/SG/CV-Carbs/Honda-VTR1000-001.JPG
Headers by Highpoint mufflersf or american imported ones in stainless

The issue is the offsetting of the bores away from the camshaft also 2 and 3 towards each other might cause grief to the combustion chamber position.

Will post photos as the work and details are sorted for everyone to see but PLEASE keep opinions and hijacking out of here and do a search to see that this is possible and Lemonhead has done this already to 82mm sleeves in the past but no longer posts on this site so no further info is available except for what he posted on past threads.

The ca18det rods have plenty of meat on the rod ends to be lengthened are heavier duty than the A series but fit with little work, so no questions here needed, however they need a little weight removed as they are heavy suckers.
Unfortunately H beams versions cant be lengthened the pin are is too thin.
http://www.mmr-direct.com/Pictures/IMGA0347.JPG
Open in new window

Posted on: 2013/11/2 10:48
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Dave, has it ever struck you that your attitude may be the cause of such animosity!

You have an ego problem that has warped and grossly amplified your sense of self worth.

What has been the progress on this build in four pages apart from being an entertaining read for all the wrong reasons!

Posted on: 2013/11/11 19:47
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Chris, i was trying to start my build diary again but again you have to have your high pony chimp squeal.

You have polluted mine and other peoples diary and for sale threads for so long with your primitive minded opinions that its time you change your repulsive disrespect.

Posted on: 2013/11/12 0:34
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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for whatever it's worth, and I make this comment within the specific context of the fact that I consider David a friend, having spent a bit of time with him over the years in person, since he lives not too far from me, and I've had arguments on here with Harry (but I'll note I still respect his knowledge and opinions) - in all fairness I think you are over-reacting to Harry's posts. None of us is Shakespeare, and in all sincerity, David, you do come up with a lot of ideas, some of them are more 'doable' or ideal in the real world, others are not so much. That doesn't mean you are an idiot or anything like that, but someimes if we don't bring forward legitimate concerns or forseeable problems, it could end up costing the original poster (or anyone else reading it and considering the same) time and money for a less than ideal result.

Once you start stretching the capacity of the A-series (and within the context of this discussion) to well beyond 1600cc, the biggest hurdle, almost to the complete exclusion of all other concerns, is how much even a very well ported head will be able to support the necessary intake and exhaust flow to keep that engine happy, even at more modest street rpms.

As an example, though the info is certainly well more than 10 years old, NASCAR were running 'basically' the same rules on their superspeedways, save for the fact that the engines had to run a restrictor plate under the carb (I forget if the carb size itself was different too, but that's somewhat irrelevant if the restrictor plate was fitted, and it cuts a hell of a lot of power). It got to the stage that the engines were just starving for air at higher and higher sustained rpms, and they weren't making good volumetric efficiency and the actual 'running' compression ratio was much lower too. And what a few engine builders played with was the fact that engine size was limited, but there was no set minimum. So instead of running the 355ci engines (I think 355 was the limit) they were running shorter stroke engines of maybe 300-330 ci, and due to them being able to get a full cylinder of air/fuel at higher rpm (compared with the larger engine) they actually made more power, and used less fuel to make the same power. It basically made them quicker and also able to go a few more laps (for any given similar run, of course they all still draft other car's slipstreams etc) and it was a winning move. And not too long after that, Nascar then mandated not only a max capacity but also a minimum capacity.

What you are doing with this proposed combination, in a sense, is running a restrictor plate engine (by virtue of a stock head, and remember that even in ported form it'll struggle to feed a decent a15 as well as we'd like, let alone a much bigger one). Ah, but you won't be spinning it as high. That necessarily limits cam duration, which then gives the motor less time to get air in and out for every revolution, but at the same time, as you reduce the duration, due to max safe opening and closing rates of the cams (mostly dictated by lifter footprint size and cam base circle diameter, which aren't too easy to change!) then you are limited much more in terms of lift, not just peak lift, but how long it'll stay at any point beyond mid range lifts (relative term of course). So in practice, there's a hell of a lot of stuff 'choking' the life out of a big engine capacity through an A series head, and even more so an unported one. Ask any historic touring car racer, and as far as engines themselves go (in determining overall performance) 'it's all in the head' so to speak.

I assure you David, and I say this as respectfully as possible without this forum becoming a hug fest, if you put together such a combination, if you added up the costs of going to such large capacity, but stuck with a stock head, a similar amount of money, but priority given to headwork (and you can get gains out of em without needing a full race spec cam mind you, there's lots of room for improvement in the valve guide/bowl/valve seat area before you have to start getting exotic). Anyhoo, that same budget (or even a more modest one) prioritised for the head (and careful cam selection) will in fact get you a much better result.

If you were instead talking of something like an L series, you'd still do head work of course, but it's more than possible to get a very wide powerband and decent top end, basically the whole nine yards, and running a stroked crank combo up to 2.3litres or so. But that is because the heads, esp with some work, are capable of actually feeding a >2 litre engine.

Very generally, esp for a streeter, more capacity pays off, but you have to ensure that the head is actually capable of catering to its needs.

On the carb issue, the wider powerband and better throttle response, i.e. a more flexible all round engine will come from 1 carb throat per intake port, and would be the way I'd lean towards. It would have to be a case of finding the right sized carb (or in the case of dcoe webers or similar, the right choke size) so that it meets it's peak flow demands, but not much more, as any further beyond that and you lose signal strength and velocity, and the mid range becomes less and less crisp, and the overall performance on road is hit hard.

If there happened to be a decent intake manifold (and arguably there are some for mini a series engines, but none that I know of for the datsun a series engine) a largish single SU type carb can produce the goods. But there isn't, so you'd have to make a custom one, and good luck getting it right.

I mentioned in the past the idea of a 4 runner curved intake (inspired by but not 100% identical to toyota k series intakes) and a holley 2 barrel. I'll stand by that option over any modded stock downdraught carb intake manifold that has a single front and rear runner and only branches out right before the ports in a Y shape . I'm not suggesting it'll outgun a twin weber intake, but if done right it'll be about the best you could do as far as a single (but 2 barreled or more) central downdraught carb would. I'd put that above a custom single SU intake, but that's just me. If I find time this summer, I'll do my best to make one (using bits from : http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/Al ... minium-Half-Donuts/pl.php ) but it's just as likely I'll end up working through!

TO try and put it in simple terms, the idea of a really big motor with a std head, it's a bit like cloning Pharlap (or Seabiscuit for folks in the US) then cutting off one of its legs and being surprised that it doesn't win any races. These aren't personal attacks on you David, it's more a case of pointing out the issues. I can't claim to have done it to datto a series engines, but I've done a fair bit on 'stretched' engines with limited flowing heads (even with porting) and it cost me a fortune to find out that either the whole combo can work with one another optimally, or it won't run half as well as a non stretched engine with money/time focussed on what will really deliver the results.

Posted on: 2013/11/12 7:50
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Re: 1775cc or 1796cc build thread
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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There is some confusion in that Im not wanting to break any records in hp, Im sure the big A series has been done and not informed on this forum where opinions fly before asking questions or often disrespecting others undisclosed intentions. I did mention earlier between all the dramas that the stockish head is just until the extreme one is finished (extreme for me much like the New Zealand one that was disclosed recently) as with all things Datsun or DIY builds if you dont learn to do the work yourself then you are on the waiting list or the mercy of others. Im still not sure the head will be after all the welding usable or able to be straightened enough, Im hoping the welding is done right rather than been rushed. Welding up/redrilling and tapping for new guides to suit bigger valves than usual 44mm in/ 35mm ex is a big task and hopefully the 83mm bores help. My modded head is a side job as the the big rigs and boat engine have priority.

Ive accepted that the A series looks best in a small 1000 and would like to get started on something thats been daunting and with a few big sighs on first attempts. The fall back and maybe not a good one as Im unsure whether it will leak like crazy but is fascinating is the recent Mazda B head conversion but would prefer pushrods here rather than a low torque Mazda head that would be happier with revvs.

Im after plenty of useable torque rather than hp and the rod stroke ratio should help the valve sizes as well by been around the 1.6 or below that for increased air speed at lower rpm and hopefully high compression enough to be useful up to 7000rpm. More of an A series compact grunter with just enough revvs to be fun with a 3.5 or 3.7 final ratio.

Posted on: 2013/11/12 10:41

Edited by D on 2013/11/12 11:07:45
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