Have been busy cleaning and extending my shed but got around to sound deadening the inside (mostly) with some dyna mat type stuff off eBay. Also fixed most of the rust by welding it up and covering with body deadener (black stuff you paint on.

Pics may follow, job still moving ahead - slowly

Engine bay is in 2k primer filler now

the rad support panel is just sitting in place at the moment ... not welded in yet I think I should install the old style tabs for the grill first

also cleaning up the front struts (got one pretty well done) - Yes the drums are going back on the front.
Does anyone know where to get the rebuild kits for the front 13/16 slave cylinders ???

PICS

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looking awesome!
getting a lot done quickly mate

Looking sweet man. Couple things and hope not to sound like a know it all and also may have missed something. 1. Im confused about the painting radiator support panel separate part. The RSP as its commonly known is attached to the car the new bit you just fitted. The front Apron is the part that goes on later. 2. Just a tip if you weren't aware already don't paint body deadener straight on welds or bare metal at least use an etch primer first as body deadener sweats like tar on the road on a hot day. The rest you can work out Im sure, Moisture and welds Bad combo.

Most would have junked it and you sir are turning mutton into lamb. Do sam proud.

Thanks guys. (Beejj, Andy, Mik)

Andy ... the black tar is actually under body sealer ... but I get what you're saying. Also I am doing it this way to make sure I get paint under the battery stand (I will be assembling soon and then give it a final couple of coats- the apron will go on after it is painted)

and Mik ... what can I say ... mmmmmmm laaaaamb

and back to my question - about wheel cylinder kits for the front drums ... neither Bursons or ABS could find a listing and my local Nissan would not even look saying 'Nissan don't hold parts for 40 year old cars' ... anyone got them elsewhere in Oz?

decided to weld on the radiator support panel so although it pretty much looks like it did before it is now solid

i had to grind all the paint off all surfaces to get the spot welds to stick (I love my hand held spotty).

repainted the primer filler (after the etch primer) and resanded again .... now just waiting for the best day to do the 2k topcoat in the engine bay

Also picked up a rear door from Ivan (Cheers mate). It needs a little TLC but should straighten out fine

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Hey mate. Can i ask where you got the spot welder and what sort of ball park price they are ?

$250 on ebay .... private seller, it was a bargain!

Engine Bay painted in 2 pack soramame green

it's not easy being green!

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