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Crank pulley bolt removal
Home away from home
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Hey boys got an issue with trying to get my cranky pully bolt off whilst still in the car..

Tried... Impact driver, breaker bar with car in 4th and handbrake on, starter motor trick stubborn little prick won't budge any more ideas.. I don't have a pully holder so I don't know what else to try without having to take the engine out

Posted on: 2014/8/18 6:20

Edited by loosekid on 2014/8/18 6:36:21
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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have you tried the starter trick with the spark plugs off?

last resort i usually do in this situation: when the bolt is too tight, i jerk it tighter for a little. then i try to undo it.

Posted on: 2014/8/18 6:27
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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Yeah tried starter trick..

Mhmm I could try tighten then reloosen..

I know this is stupid I have taken them off before it is a right hand thread isn't it..? So left loosen/anti-clockwise

Posted on: 2014/8/18 6:32
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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yeah the thread is normal, counter clockwise to loosen.

Posted on: 2014/8/18 6:36
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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Need to get the prick off.. I can't think of anything else.. Except to use a pully holder which I don't own..

Posted on: 2014/8/18 6:38
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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another trick i learned, is to hold the flywheel still using a screwdriver. you take of the starter, and jam a good flat screwdriver at the flywheel teeth. that way, the engine wont turn. ask a friend to jerk open the bolt using breaker bar while you hold the screwdriver.

Posted on: 2014/8/18 6:42
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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Hmm not exactly something I really want to do.. don't want to damage or brake a tooth off

Posted on: 2014/8/18 8:02
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Mine was really tight, I had to put the car in 5th, hand brake on, bricks/ blocks behind the wheels and about 2m of pipe on the end of the breaker bar! Blocking the wheels gives you that bit extra.

Posted on: 2014/8/18 8:23
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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When I pulled mine, I had to make something to hold the pulley. It's an early A12, so it's just the single pulley with 7 holes. I drilled a matching set of holes in a chunk of aluminum and put big socket head cap screws through them, that were very close to the size of the holes in the pulley, then bolted a lever to the other side. Both the lever and the socket breaker bar were about 1.5m long.
Of course, then I got an A14 with the three pulley setup and no holes to bolt into, so next time I'll have to make something that grabs the pulley, I guess. Phoo.
But if you have access to/know someone who has a cnc mill I could post the drill file for drilling the seven holes for the A12 pulley.

Posted on: 2014/8/24 5:41
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Re: Crank pulley bolt removal
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I'll never remember to revisit this thread, so:
G20 (imperial)
F5
S1000.00000

G0 Z0.1
G0 X0 Y1.46
G83 Z-0.1 R0.05 Q0.02 F3
X1.141 Y0.910
X1.423 Y-0.325
X0.633 Y-1.315
X-0.633 Y-1.315
X-1.423 Y-0.325
X-1.141 Y0.910
X0 Y0
G0 Z1

If you're on a manual machine, rather than a CNC, just use all the x,y locations and ignore the rest. The second-to-last-line, 0,0, is the hole for the crank bolt. Yes, I put 0,0 in the middle of the table, which is bad form. It's just a habit I have from a previous job.

Posted on: 2014/8/24 5:53
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