waiting on video when car gets to lakeside :)
Would be awesome if u could record from inside the car on that event

Are u planning on ever taking the car down the quarter mile this year?

As for the looks, i wonder if the "band aid" would attract the attention of authorities lol

I used to record from inside the car with my old camera, but the new one doesn't seem to like the contrast from the Soarer's dark interior (tinted windows) to bright sunshine outside, and just whites-out the windscreen so you can't see anything. I'll give it a go in the 120Y - hopefully it will be ok without the tinted glass.

I don't plan on doing any 1/4 mile stuff. I did one test'n'tune night in my 180SX a few years ago and left after two runs. Got bored with the hour and half line-up for each run... It's very hard on drivelines too with their super sticky launch area at Willowbank. I don't think the gearbox would like it much. I should really take it to a dyno to check mixtures and see where peak torque and power are.

Gearing Chart for the 120Y
Shows speeds at the shift points of 7000rpm in 1st and 2nd, then 6500rpm 3rd 4th and 5th, and the revs it drops to in the next gear.

Where is that chart from? I'd love to plot my car shift points at 6500 with dogleg 63a with 3.7 4.1 and 4.3 gears.

I made it. Used a downloaded gearing spreadsheet, changed it with my input values for the gear ratios, tyre, and diff and charted the numbers it produced the old fashioned way because Excel didn't want to play the game...

mik have a play with this online calculator

http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/wheelcalc.html


have you got a long straight at lakeside?
will be interesting to see how well it pulls through 5th with the turbo

That's hours of fun calculating that on excel spreadsheet. Lucky I have the 63a ratios already.
Thanks ange
tipping there's a few differences between 3.7 and 4.3

Lakeside has a couple of good straights, but I don't think I'll need 5th to be honest. If it does more than 180km/h top speed at Lakeside I'll be over the moon!

There are spreadsheets you can download all setup just punch your gear ratios and tyre size in. I can email you a copy of the one I have if you want. Looks like this:

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Picked up a couple of free 71B long boxes thanks to Option1Garage on Friday afternoon, so if I blow up the Stanza 63A I have something I can upgrade to with minor mods to tailshaft and mounts. i'd still rather have a stumpy Skyline box but they're getting a bit hard to find these days.

Also did some camber and castor mods yesterday. The 120Y having seperate brackets for the castor rod and swaybar that bolts onto the chassis makes this very easy... and free :) Simply moved those brackets forward 20mm by redrilling the mounting holes and cutting 20mm off the end of the bracket. Has the advantage of keeping the swaybar and lower control arm aligned as well, so I can still use the adjustment holes on the swaybar. I should have picked up some urethane bushes to fit at the same time, but didn't think about it until I was under the car doing it... hopeless!
I've had this idea since doing the 180B x-member into an previous 120Y coupe. Initially I cut the back corner of the castor rod bracket off, but later realised I should have just moved it forward, killing a few birds with one stone - it should allow the 120Y sway bar to fit without fouling the 180B x-member too.

Redrilled the lower control arm pivots as well, just like my old 1200. The phone reckons its got 3 to 3.5 degrees.

As expected, it drives a million times better on the road with the additional castor. No more tramlining, heaps more directional stability and turnis in pretty nice too ;) Bring on Lakeside!

Spaced the swaybar down as well to avoid the usual problem of it hitting the outer edge of the chassis.

Small gaurd cut to accomodate the castor and pumped them out a little bit more with a cricket stump to clear the tyre after redrilling the x-member.

Also now has an early coupe grill which has a nice duct for cold air straight to the pod filter.

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Can you just cut the castor rod bush and s leave in half like do does to get same castor adjustment?
And did you drill the holes up wards or down to get the new camber?
Looking at similar for stanza but also longer lcas even