you can also use a mazda twin cam head kit
that will save you alot of time and money
from working an A series head and also can
pick up heads for almost free as they are
plenty today compared to mainly soft A heads.

Also the same kit can use the GA16DE head
if you use Z5 mazda smaller cam belt pulleys
as they share the same valve angles and cam
spacings compared to wide angled heads.

No point with 500 hp if you don't work out the holy grail of a strong enough a series g box first

This one is only good for 450 HP.

wasnt easy but Jaguar's 500hp 1.6 litre effort
http://adsves.weebly.com/powertrain/c-x75

Yep DD knows what's what, when I make this adaptor plate to run a w series like 3rotor has ill put the plans up so so anyone can do it

DD, yep, Still H89 head. I was wondering... Now that i have the gap to port, shouldn't I keep the ports as round as I can? Or is there a reason they're oval? Going the EFI route puts the injector as close to the head as possible, but a custom intake manifold means I get to choose intercept angle and distance from head. Thats a whole horror math problem in its own when i get there, but the point is, I don't need the ports oval for higher injector placement. I recall reading they do oval for higher RPM usage... So Oval vs Round?

D, brilliant little Jag motor =D Gives me hope. I noticed the torque at almost the same RPM range. I'm hoping the TVS charger would fix that and broaden the power band into the mid-rpm range a bit. With regards to the head, I'd like to use an A-series head for starters. The Tomei 1300 with its 180ps started all this. My brother said: "If that little 1300 could give you almost 200hp, what could your 1500 do if you bored it out and give it a turbo that looks like it fell out of Luis Lima's bakkie?" I still wanna know there's an A-series in there somewhere beneath the plumbing...

Still doing a bit of research on transmissions. I found a bunch of vids on youtube about a lot of 1000hp 4-cylinders. Most of them AWD for traction. =/ I don't really want to give up the RWD yet, but 500 ponies in a car that weighs less than 300kg without the engine...I might have to...MIGHT. Most guys around here use Toyota Cressida transmissions. They're tough, reliable, and common. I'm worried about the connection to the crank though. Adapter cant be too thick. I've seen 2 spigots snap at the flywheel and I had to get them both out of that same crank....More research for me

Good. H89 can be opened up to the GX size. Do all 1400 bakkies come with H89?

The reason they are oval is to get them bigger. 40 mm tall if no problem, but if you were to port the round ports to 40 mm you'd open the water pockets. GX head has much bigger ports than A15 EFI head.

It wasn't easy, but BMW's 1500hp 1.5 liter effort was successful.

I'm not sure if all Bakkies came with H89 heads. Our bakkies all came with A14's far's I remember. The A15's were all import motors. And A15 heads vary wildly. I've had 2 A15 heads, both tiny round-port, without the H-something stamp on them.

The head in the above pics came off my own A15 that I took off when I had another ported. Built the motor first, tried it, and had the body sent for sandblasting and respray since. Motor on the bench has been rebuilt a few times. =P

Before and After - My rebuilt A15 just before I sent Lucy off to the Body Shop. Took her for a test run and she ate her first Opel OPC that day...good times =)
Good Starting Point for 500hp right?

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  Lucy - Motor.jpg (180.50 KB)


  A15 first build.jpg (196.94 KB)


  Rebuilt A15 2.jpg (190.36 KB)

I have my doubts 500 hp can be achieved. It would take what, 60 psi boost? The engine would need to be specially built for that, forged pistons, very low compression (6:1?). A roots blower is the go, as you'd need some boost at low rpms just to drive the thing.

Runner length is not an issue, as you'll be forcing air through them.

Yoda gearbox spigot is not an issue, as you can put the bush in the flywheel instead of the crank.

There is at least one 500 hp 1200 on here, and it is 2-wheel drive.