I'd also like to get hold of a 4.3 Corolla BW diff. That old L18 1200 coupe dropped over a second going from a 3.9 to a 4.3 diff. I think the dyno the 120Y went to was a bit 'happy'. I think I'm playing with almost exactly the same sort of grunt my old junker L18 1200 coupe had.
The 4.3 diff would give it a bit more punch out of the slow corners - at the moment you have to wait a bit for the boost threshold out of the hairpins. It will also give a bit of extra track, which wouldn't hurt. And might even make it a 2nd gear launch.

I need 1.5 seconds to catch the class leader. But 4th in class and 34th outright out of 81 cars is not too shabby for it's first proper go at Mt Cotton.

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oh, and screw it, I'm not selling! :P

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That's the spirit Harry...

That's what I've been waiting to hear 🍻
I regret selling my last few toys only because as they say u don't know what u have till it's gone...

I have the King leafs in the back of my ute (Same as the JTS leaves) which has an overrider.
With the CA and A050s i get massive tramp off the line, but when in motion no real issues.
The Hilux pinion is slightly off centre so without extended rear shackles to rear uni hits the trans tunnel on take off.
Ive been thinking about solutions to incorporate a lateral retraint and traction rod setup in one, but haven't come up with anything concrete yet (focus is on getting the engine back together).
I was thinking about a trianglated Caltrac style setup or triangulated traction rods...

I'm going for your old set up Harry, long rod l18 with 4.3 gears. I need acceleration not top speed. Looks like a winning combo.

The l20 should have a bit more torque so that would help mid range power out of corners too.

that's a good bang for buck setup. My old L16/18 junker ran 50.02 on ancient $50ea Hankook Z2000 race tyres. It would definitely have been in the 49s on tyres like these A050s I have now. So the turbo Y still has a way to go to match it. They do say a turbo engine needs an extra 20bhp to match an NA engine though - it's that instant throttle response and initial drive out of corners...

"oh, and screw it, I'm not selling! :P"
Haha. I'm inspired and having second thought myself now...

I found the same thing with the diff ratio changes. It can really make a big difference to the lap time particularly pulling out of a slow corner onto a long straight such as at Wakefield Park.

What took me a bit by surprise is the difference it made in the braking zone. Moving from a 4.11 to a 4.875 ratio really changed the brake balance of the car due to engine braking. The other thing I found that also effected the brakes was the flywheel weight.

Oh, I'm having fun already!!

2 wheels off the ground is not a good sign unless its intentional stunt driving!
hope you are not 50+ Kgs heavier since your best time was achieved :)
Im glad you are keeping it as your threads have been the most "complete" and informative of all the threads on here, its something I and most here fail at and can only admire even envy!.
I have been looking at container prices to get it over here to Japan, theres nothing like that here and I love the carb setups more than EFIs complexities.

not sure about the long rod giving good accel, sure they can rev higher safer but shorter rod stroke ratios accel faster by seat of the pants at least. My old 180b sss coupe had an L18 with L20 crank and short rods along with shorter piston that definitely accelerated faster than any stock L20b. The L20b was smoother but the L18/L20 even tired had more poke and all else was just as stock. Theres a limit/balance in that application. I would rather just shorter lighter pistons where the weight of the longer rod matches or is even lighter than the shorter rod it replaces.

Machining 3mm off the piston makes it a lot lighter d 😉