Do I need to use 1200 Disc Struts for a S13 break conversion.
I have a spare set of drum struts so i am wanting (if possible) to do it all to these whilst their out of the ute. cheers

Also.. can you tell me if this converison uses the same Master cylinder and break hose.

Master Cylinder: yes, no need to change

Brake hose: S13 caliper requires a banjo fitting, so use the S13 brake hose



Using drum struts requires grinding the strut and fabricating a caliper bracket (instead of a simple adapter)



Drum Hubs on Disc Struts are preferred
* no machining/grinding needed
* does not increase track like the Disc Hub
* Use off-the-shelf adapter + 5 mm spacer



[edit: fixed the images]

Okay thanks.... Can you tell me if the piston rods from a 1200 ute (drum) strut are the same as the piston rods of the 120y (disc) strut.
I need to get the recess machined down so the strut mount can drop down to house the spring properly when jacked up to keep the police happy.

Has anyone had this done before?

Do you mean the strut piston rod? Not sure what you mean about a recess

Whether or not they are the same depends on whether or not someone changed them in the last 40 years
* Original 1974-1975 should be the same
* Original 1976~1978 are probably the same
* After about 1982 I think they went to strut cartridges




#1 in this diagram

Say if you've just put the spring in... And you're putting the strut mount in to house the top of the spring.... Just below the thread for the nut is an edge that stops the strut mount from falling down the whole strut piston rod... I need to have that edge machined down and the thread extended to house the King springs I have.

Isn't the proper way to do that is to fit tender/helper/keeper springs?

King Springs are not supposed to fall out of the perch like that, but there were reports that old King Springs did fall out. Discussion: Front Coil springs!!

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Yeah helper springs are illegal in my state. So the spring must be captive on its own... :( :')

That's a weird law

Unfortunately they won't be captive if you enlarge the hole so that the "mount" moves with the spring. In a stock 1200 that's the Upper Spring Seat

If you do enlarge the hole, it risks scoring the hydraulic piston rod every time the suspension droops




One solution is to move the lower seat farther up, to where the spring is still captive at maximum droop (say when jacked up)

I thought that aslong as the top strut rod mount and top spring seat could sit like 3 mm lower to be able to hit the top of the spring and bolt down with abit on tension that they would be captive at full droop without swapping parts...
This would be a "proper way" being that all I'm changing is the top spring seat and piston rod mount's distance to the spring...??? This is all just in my head. It's currently all theory so if you can see a problem with doing this please let me know :)
Thanks

Nono..... I assume that where the 3 points to is sitting on a recess.... I'm thinking about having that recess machined down enough to make the spring captive..... Then drop the top piston rod mount onto the top on the spring mount (as per factory) .... Which might also need to have the thread on top extended to then bolt down and hold both spring mount and piston rod mount in place.

I'd upload photos but I've never been able to get it to work.