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Re: B210 electrical problems
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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2003/12/3 0:49
From Burbank, CA
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you need to clean the paint off the bolt and also around where it held down the ground cable.

Posted on: 2004/11/13 3:38
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Re: B210 electrical problems
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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From Castro Valley,CA USA
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Turn on the headlights (large load)and measure across the ground connection. If there is any resistance (paint), it will show up as voltage. Zero volts is good, up to about 1 volt is ok, I guess.
Does the charge light come on when this happens?

Posted on: 2004/11/13 8:01
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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the charge light never comes on, only on start up when all the lights go on. what do you mean accross the ground, I have a meter Im just not sure where to put the pos/neg terminals.

Posted on: 2004/11/13 9:06
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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I dont know if this directly relates to this problem but when I give about 10% throttle, I can actually make the car stall out. The electrical also drops out temporarily. Below and above it runs OK...

Posted on: 2004/11/13 9:13
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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It sounds like you have a big short somewhere, I would suspect somewhere in the ignition since it is bogging down at the same time and the alternator/charging system checks fine.

Take your car at night time to the darkest place you can find. Turn off all the lights and pop open the hood with the engine running. It helps if your eyes are also adjusted to the darkness. Look around the engine for sparks or arcing from the spark plug wires. If you don't see anything, grab onto each of the spark plug and coil wires and feel for shock. If you look closesly at the spark plugs you should be able to see them actually firing, I always could. It'll look like a ring of light around the plug. Watch what happens when you increase the rpms and keep looking for sparks or arcing/grounding of wires. Just don't stick your hand into moving parts!

You've got a big drain on the system somewhere, you just have to find it. I suspect ignition or distributor related. I'd give it a good tune up; replace the cap, rotor, points if you got em, spark plugs, wires and see if anything happens. Also, ground the engine out in a few places and make sure there is NO paint or grease on any of the connections. Sand it down if you have to, but it should be bare metal on a ground, especially the negative from the battery. You'll find it soon enough!

Posted on: 2004/11/13 9:56
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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Here are some additional things to measure:

1. When you start the engine, the IGN lamp should immediately go out. If it stays on for 10 seconds, there is something wrong, probably the alternator brushes are worn.

2. Measure the battery voltage. Put the volmeter leads on the battery. It should read between 13.5-15 volts at 1200 rpm. No higher. If it's higher than 15.45 volts* the battery is overcharging. Adjust or replace the voltage regulator.

* according to Haynes, at freezing temp (0 Celcius) the max is 15.45 volts. At warmer temperatures it should not be this high. At 40 Celcius (104 F) the max should be 14.85 volts. Engine compartment temperatures even on a cooler days probably reach this latter temperature.

3. To measure bad connections as Angelo says:
a. Put the voltmeter in the low-volt range (2 volts or whatever you have)
b. Put the '-' lead of the voltmeter on the battery '-' terminal
c. Put the '+' lead of the voltmeter on the body somewhere where the paint is removed down to bare metal. The voltage should be zero
I think 1 volt would be too high, but 0.1 volt would be OK. Anyone have a specification?

Posted on: 2004/11/13 16:42
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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the only thing I havent replaced, new, in the ignition system is the coil. Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/points/condensor/regulator/alternator.
could the coil be the issue here?

Posted on: 2004/11/13 21:01
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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OK, a little more info to chew on;

I tested the ground - between 0.00v and 0.01v
seems fine

I tested the battery @ 1200 rpm - 14.5v
seems fine

I started going though the fuses again, my gf insisted to check them. So i discovered two oddities;

The taillight/parklamp/ill lamp had a 15 and asks for a 10 amp fuse. It is HOT to the touch.

When I remove the interlock solenoids 10 amp fuse the idle goes up and the electrical goes down (lights dim, fans slow)

Posted on: 2004/11/14 4:04
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Re: B210 electrical problems
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Sorry 1 more thing,
The brake light indicator light comes on when the solenoid fuse is removed.

Posted on: 2004/11/14 4:09
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Re: B210 electrical problems
Just can't stay away
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Hmmm...... Keith,

What is the voltage like when idling and everything one (lights etc...) is that when it dims?

I recall from time past that if your fan belt gets loose or glazed then the alternator wont put out like it should.

???

Posted on: 2004/11/14 5:51
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