Well, to the best of my knowledge, the simplest setup is to source a complete H165 rear axle assembly from a ute. The dicc brakes were used on all TRX'x & almost all LX sedans. Only the very first month or so of series 1 LX's had drums. I think that LX wagons from series 2 onwards also had them.
Check with a brake specia;ist for the best brake pads as series 2 switched to metalics.

Please don't re-use the wheel bearings as you may well live to regret the choice. You should be able to source new ones for a lot less than $70 ea, more like that much for both. Ring around & save money.

Next, all you need to do is match up the master cylinder & front brakes. Late 200B calipers are the same as the original B/Birds except for the mounting holes, & 200B struts can be used in 1200's, so it could all work out.

You will need 14"wheels front & rear.

Dodgeman what is involved with the master cylinder upgrade? Particularly when you put rear discs on with a master cylinder that used to push drums? I hear there is some sort of residual pressure valve or something you need to get rid of? Can anyone help

I have trx bluey rear disc brakes on my coupe with a h165. i didn't do the conversion but from what i can tell it's not too hard. use the bluey backing plates + internals have the bluey backing plate put onto your axle with a new bearing pressed on, it then bolts up to your diff same as the old 1200 backing plate. slide disk onto wheel studs bolt on caliper and wheel. Mine uses steel braided flexible lines from the t-piece on the diff to the calipers.

For the handbrake i put a cable between the two levers at the wheels and another cable from the handbrake that joins to this and pulls it forward. I would not recomend this as to get the hand brake to work properly the shoes have to be adjusted right up and the cable has a bit of tension on it even when the handbrake is off. mine is in a rally car and so is only for registration purposes, after rego i back it right off and never use it just park the car in gear and got a hydraulic handbrake for handbrake turns.

To fit 13 inch rims i elongated the caliper mounting holes and moved the caliper as close as i could to the disk. This is a rally car and the tension on the brake caliper bolts is checked often and have not had any dramas so far with the caliper moving. I use hotwire rims 13x5.5jj. I would suggest if your going to elongate the caliper mounting holes in the backing plate to fill the gap with a half moon type cutout or a drill and tap a hole for a grub screw to hold the caliper in the desired position.

Quote: The best one to talk to about that would be Dattoman_1000 as this is his area of expertise.
He would need to know what front brakes you are going to use & he should be able to come up with the right info.
Try sending him a PM or e-mail.

I have done some investigating for my self and have seemed to have found the problem. With drums there is a one way valve which is spring loaded and holds a certain amount of pressure in the break lines...(enough to hold the drum shoes out). With disc breaks you have a similar valve but with a small hole in the centre allowing no residual pressure. They are quite obvious when pulling apart a standard 1200 MC. I know there is a fair bit of fuss about upgrading master cylinders when upgrading brakes but could someone please explain why? I can understand the use of a booster but apart from that I can't see how it makes any difference.? There is the obvious variations in bore and stroke but shed some light....

Quote: Close, but no banana. The residual pressure is enough to ensure that the cups, or seals, in the wheel cylinders always remain in contact with the walls of the cylinder. This ensures that air does not find it's way into the cylinders.
The pressure is nowhere near enough to hold the shoes out

I see! Either way it's enough pressure to create an obvious drag with discs. I was having confusion because I had forgotten that the MC I have came off a coupe with a disc front end and I couldn't work out why the front brakes weren't dragging also! silly me. I'm doing a bit of an experiment with just drilling a tiny hole in the centre of one of the drum valves. It should now be right!


I must for any lack of comprehension in my post last night. I'd just got back from the pub!

Yes, there is just enough pressure to be a drag.
In some master cylinders, the residual pressure check valve is a separate part that you just leave on the bench during reassembly. Check yours out, you may be able to save some drilling.