i cant get my 120y ball joints off the arm, i have a workshop manual it simply says "remove" but i cant "remove" it.

you'll need to bash it good with a mini-sledge or something similar. if you can remove the control arm this makes it easier - but also means more pi55-farting around

and when i say bash it, i meanBASH it. you'll think you're about to bend your control arm with the next blow and it'll just drop out. try and prop the control arm on some lumps of wood to absorb the shock and stop and damage to the control arm bush.

Apply some seperative pressure with a lever, and hit either side of the poket with hammers similtaneously.

much easier is a ball joint removal too which allows this process to be much easier. Its like a cold chisel but has a fork which is placed on either side of the ball joint. When struck with a hammer it prys the joint and you can remove it. They seize up after many years of mud and water ...

as tempting as it might be DONT bash the thread in the hope that it will drop out... becuase you WILLl damage it before it comes out...

pro240c..I cracked up when i read your advice on BASHING the balljoint. I was thinking exactly the same thing before I read this thread.

Bashing both sides (at the same time...requires co-ordination) with 2 hammers..that's the way!

definately just bash dude, but as ange said don't bash down on the thread or she's a gonner. bash on the section of metal surrounding the tapered bit of the ball joint.

I'm with converted on this one....I have a tool which sounds just like converted described. I use it for tie rod ends too.....and it cost a grand total of about $11 from the local parts store.....best money I have ever spent. It's basically a wedge with the centre cut out to make a fork. You line it up with the tapered bit in the fork and hit it with a hammer (can take some punding!)...and hey presto....she pops off.

Quote:
You need a good ball-peen hammer for the job. The impact of the hammer needs to distort the taper of the arm (the part you're hitting) in order to pop it off the balljoint's shaft. The smaller contact point will require significantly less effort (and do less damage) to achieve this than a mini-sledge or club hammer.

On a Datsun strut front end, this process can damage the balljoint itself if the steering arm is not held securely, either by reconnecting the strut, or by removing the assembly and holding the arm in a vice. But it is unlikely you'd need to remove the arm from the balljoint unless you are replacing the balljoint.

oh! i didn't know he was planning on keeping the ball joint - i thought it was being replaced with a new one.

if you're keeping it, then don't BASH it like i suggested. if you're replacing it, then go for it.