Hey Chris, nice work man. Should handle like a dream when done. Im thinking about making up some tramp bar for my 1200 coupe. I am using the same diff as u but on leaf springs. Major tramp hits if im cruising in 1st then flatten it. So i've been improvising with some steel at work and am yet to decide. I dont wanna go the wrong way about it and end up still getting tramp. My first idea was a similar setup to the one thats described in the "Datsun 1200 suspension mods" part of this webpage. Another was to modify a set of 1200 base plates with thick flat bar welded to it running back under the spring with a rubber bump. The other was similar to your top bar.

What is everyones thoughts on tramp bars??

Scott
Davo

Hi Scott - I've kinda changed my thinking regarding rear 1200 suspension - maybe less is better? The reverse eye 4 leaf rears such as Andrew is running seem to handle the job really well and I'm sure he has no tramp going on. This week I checked out a full race coupe with an injected 200 hp A15 - I'm confident in saying that it would be the best 1200 club car in the world and it is running the reverse eyes and nothing else. If Andrew has no problems with around 250 hp at the rears then it's gotta be OK for your A14 screamer.

i reckon the best setup for rear suspensions gotta be the one in the download "datsun 1200 competion suspension". if you were getting that serious about modifying the rear end surely this is a pretty damn good way to go about it. when i build my CA18DET 1200 down the track im definatly taking a few pages outta that book

<small>[ Edited by 1200rallycar on 2002/6/8 17:13:46 ]</small>

Yeah I downloaded it the other day, mind you it took about 4hrs to print the bloody thing, I shit you not. Thats on a HP Deskjet 670C, must be high resolution pages?

I dont think I will go with the front suspension setup in the book. Im gonna go with the Stanza front but then adapt some of the ideas in the book to the Stanza struts eg. adjustable height spring cups. As for the rear end, I have no idea what Im doing, it depends what diff im going to run. That also depends on what motor to use, and that depends on whether I want to rally or circuit race. Jeez I hate myself sometimes. Ive been crapping on about racing for ages but have go no closer still. No money u see.

Ive just had an idea to build a killer Improved Production Car. Running SR20DET with restrictor (CAMS Rules!)it sure would go hard!

Enough dribbling from me,

Simon

Another reason for me going 4-link is that it's different, and because I can. It will drastically help with undercar space for mufflers, that's a real bonus.

Andrew's rear leaf springs/shocks combo was one of the hardest suspensions I've tried. You couldn't push down the back of that car at all. It was obviously good for the race track, but I imagine on a rough surface (Any sydney road) it wouldnt be so pleasant. But it can't have been too bad, he certainly did some miles in it.

Chris.

nice job dattodude. who sells the coilovers and how muchy? do they take the 2.5" ID springs? keep us posted on the progress

Call me silly, But I don't know the coilover ID.
I guess it would be about 2.5, A fella in melbourne will wind up the springs once I've mounted up the shocks and determined their effective travel. Given the weight of the rear of the car, he can apparently wind up the correct ones. The cost on the shocks were about AU$190 each, with trade discount from Proven.com.au. They are about $260 each at retail. Yeah I know that's not cheap. The springs are AU$90 each on top of that. I'm hoping it's worth the trouble. The top crossmember to hold the shocks and panhard rod is almost done. That'lll look pretty neat. I'll post photos soon.

Chris.

I've actually have changed the leafs to reverse eyes and with a extra heavy duty spring aswell. These are all bolted to some Koni shox. The suspension is pretty much rock hard and hardly moves with all my body weight on it which is what i wanted. So its would be a pretty much the same rear end setup as Andrews but with a slightly heavier diff. Could the unsprung weight be too much causing it to tramp??

Maybe just leave it be for a few months and see if it stops? I think i'll do that before i start welding anything onto the suspension.

Scott
Davo