the 180b (b is for bucket) was also known as 710 i think

B is also for brilliant, especially the early 73 SSS with 13" wheeels. Model is 610 though not 710.

Which State are you in Dataway?

I'm in central Arkansas.

Sorry Feral but the Brilliant was for the rust as it glows with it. As for its weight compared to the 4 door its a porker and the reason the 4 door did better in rallies. However 180b sss has very nice styling I admit.

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Not sure what 'cowling' you are referring to, but I guess you mean the radiator support panel? Here is the 120Y coupe I did the swap on, and you can see the rad support is cut out to suit the larger rad. I used a Volvo 244DL radiator. This took about 1/2 an hour to do. You may have had to cut out more or less depending on the radiator you chose to use, and would have also had to come up with a way of mounting the radiator. And don't forget you'll have to find suitable radiator hoses too.



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a stumpy box's (R30 Skyline or Stanza have short 5spds) shifter fits in the original floorpan hole on the 120Y which has a long oval opening to suit the L14 and L16 variants they were released with in other markets. Sounds like you used a long box...

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Here's a photo of the 120Y and 180B x-members. the part that fouls the castor rod brackets is where the x-member mounts to the chassis. How did you manage to bolt the 180B x-member on after removing 3" off it?



You should have cut about half to three quarters of an inch off the castor mount brackets, like this...



All these pics were already on the site and linked from various discussions on the L series conversion into the 120Y (B210). And all the 'problems' you've raised here have also been covered in those discussions. Maybe you guys should have used the search function? But at the end of the day, asking a question here, or any other web forum, does not mean you no longer have to think for yourself. In any conversion, you will need to consider things like larger rads, gear shift position etc etc...

Harry you still have this car?
It looks really nice for a shell.
Ive always wanted one of the rare gx or sss models as listed in the photo sections earlier.

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thanks for the tip. i'll try to remember that in future

everyone's always on about bolt-in mods, how easy it is etc etc. it's only easy because you forget the hard bits.

FTR, the crossmember bolt flange is about 3 - 3.5in wide, yes?

and nowhere - that i could find - does it say or show up in a search about cutting the radiator cowling. L18B110, you have mentioned numerous times about using a volvo 244DL radiator, but not cutting out the cowling - "a few mods to fit it" i think you said once.

bolt in mods are BOLT IN - and as Team_dat's sig says so perfectly - they don't require a grinder.