Alright I think we're on the same page now. Annealing CAN actually be done at sub critical temperatures. You will find that there is grain growth at temperatures as low as 300degrees.

I agree with the fact that away from the weld you will end up with annealed areas which are softer. I will however pose the question; when a welded diff blows is this from the slightly softer (yet more ductile) metal shearing or is it from all the cyclic loading and shocks on the extremely brittle metal at the site of the weld. I think diffs will have gone from both cases. Remember what dattodude said before about annealing being done over long periods of time? That is because it takes a significant amount of time to get reasonable amounts of grain growth. Now when you weld the metal is only hot for a short amount of time meaning the amount of annealing will be minimal if not negligable.

One thing to say full spool.

another brilliant comment

Daveman..my original post was aimed at LAGWAGON who said "you could do a decent job of welding the center"

My point was there really is no decent way..And I suggested brazing or resin. If brazing is no good, resin may be the way to go? If 1200rallycar put a decent size washer in every corner of the spider gears, then filled the whole center with fiber glass resin??? (the resin will hold the washers in place) then this may be a better solution to welding??? Fiber glass resin may be too prone to cracking, something with more elastic properties would be better.

By the wasy 1200rallycar...aren't you a big fan of the phantom grip???

Quote:

Indeed!

The better way to do a low buck locker is to pour molten aluminium into the carrier (closed side diffys only) to create a "foundry locker.

i am a big fan of phantom grip but... havent got round to making one for a h190 yet...

i made one for a sprinter centre, still waiting for the owner to put that diff in to se how that goes