is one better than the other, would it be worth converting from cable? (im guessing no) but what do you think?

cable will last forever with little or no worries. (unless it snaps from old age).

hydraulic is a better when it's all working ok.

It depends on what gearbox you are running, the unavailability of clutch cables would be the only reason to switch on a stock setup.

Chris

Is there some special way of lubricating clutch cables? The one's in all 3 of my 120Y's used to come out in stages, good for causing bunny-hopping and stallage, but bunny-hopping and stallage aren't required too often.

I tried oil, grease, petrol, oil worked temporarily.

Graphite would be an alternative, but you'd need to make sure there was no oil or grease left on the cable before you put it on.

hydraulic clutches generally have a lighter pedal feel... which is probably the only advantage over cable that i can think of...

cable clutches work well... easy to adjust.. no mess.. no leaky cylinders and no bleeding required....

just a heavier pedal...

that said i have hydraulic clutches in both my datto and my commodore ute...

As ANGE have said, the hydrolic clutches are lighter in feel but I think I have some advice for you.

I replaced my clutch a couple of months ago and also decided to replace the clutch cable.
I got mine made up at a cable manufacturing business.
They make cables and such stuff.
If you have such a place go to them and give the old clutch cable to use as a idea of what you want.
Tell them to use the tipe of cable that has a plastic lining on the inside.
This drastically helps to lighten the feel of the clutch.
Get some white lightning lubricating liquid at a bicycle shop.
They use it on mountain bike chains.
It does not attract dirt on the chain and gears.
Pour it in on the one side until it comes out on the other side.Leave it overnight and do it once more the next day.
Leave it again for 5 hours or so and put some copper compound grease on each side.
Put it in, ajust and enjoy.
Mine feels lighter than a Toyota's hydrolic clutch and I have been driving it for quite some time in city traffic.

Tom i wouldnt do the conversion for the sake of it...only if you had a grearbox install which requires it ...ie 63A gearbox.
Then you cant convert the std cable pedal to hydraulic...I used a bluebird pedal assy and bolted it to the firewall...works well but alot of fiddling around.

cable is better if you plan on goin bush.

Not worth the trouble unless u have a very heavy duty clutch or problems routing the cable.

Ange wrote:
Quote:

If I'm not mistaken, the 1200/B210/B310 hydraulic clutches don't need adjustment after the intial adjustment. Some of the B310's don't even have a threaded rod. If you adjust them correctly to start, when you need a further adjustment your clutch disk is done. Also, if you change your clutch fluid per manual spec when you change the brake fluid (once a year, right?), I doubt it will ever leak. As far as bleeding, gravity bleeding takes about 3 minutes. Hydraulic clutch is by far the way to go.