Hi Guys (and Girls now ),

This is my story one weekend... and 2 sunny struts:

Parts required:
2 13" wheels
120y Sway bar (??? 1200 might be ok?)
2 Sunny Lower Control arms
2 Sunny Struts
Master Cylinder from 120y or Sunny

Tools:
Dremel
Socket Ring spanners and Open enders
Ball joint remover (not required but makes aligning the wheels easier)

How To:

1. Jack up car take wheels off.
2. Look at the stuts and say this will be easy.
3. Drive to pick-a-part and find appropriate 120y. Make sure you wack all your knuckles on the rusty wreck.
4. Remove the old 1200 stuts, Lower Control arms and sway bar (need to remove stone guard!)
5. With appropriate size drill bit drill or dremel out the three holes at the top of the strut tower.
6. With a drill or dremel the radius rod holes so they match the sunny LCA (THIS STEP COULD BE DODGEY - NOT SURE IF IT WEAKENS THE RADIUS RODS)
7. Put 1200 springs in sunny strut
8. Assemble everything back together
9. Adjust the tie rods the same amount as the lower control arms were increased (I have not done this yet)
10. Install a new master cylinder either 7/8 or 13/16 (not done yet)

I'll update this when I'm done.

I am happy with how the car sits, nice and low and a bit of NEG camber on the front! Was gunna take pics all the way thru, but the digi cam had flat batteries. Plus it wasnt that hard to do!

Cheers,

Richard

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I really wouldn't recommend using 2 13" wheels on the front and 12" on the back- it will mess up the handling. besides, I've used 12*5" alloys over Stanza brakes!

Quote:
you could just swap over the strut tops - no dodginess required!

Quote:
I'm assuming this was into a 1200 - your nickname would suggest it was a 120Y? . I used 1200 castor rods with my Stanza struts and just elongated the rearmost hole to suit. The front hole is unmodified. This would be prefferable to modifying both holes, as the un-tampered with front hole provides positive location of the arm, whereas if you modify both and are not totally accurate (you did mention dremel!) there is the possibility of different castors on each side and also of the castor rod moving relative to the control arm during operation.

Quote:
this isn't required. I still use the standard 1200 master with Stanza brakes in my coupe and it does the job fine.

This was in a 1200, my 120y is long gone :)

I didnt know about the wider 12" fitting over, I know the stock 12" dont fit over.

I didnt even think about swapping the tops... DOH!! oh well its done now

Yep and by enlarging the hole I ment elongating it, I enlarged thehole closest to the front of the car, as the rear one is threaded.

I get no pedal with my 1200 and sunny stuts, I think I'll need to check the rear drums and maybe adjust.

Thanks for the info, I should have had this before I started

My experience of this was that I only got the struts from the sunny, not the control arms etc. Problem was that the 2 bolt holes on the struts were at 80mm centres (and tapped) whereas the old ones were at 75mm centres (not tapped). So I just elongated the holes in the struts (about an hour with a file) and they went in ok using the original bolts. Like Dattomaster, I find the original master cylinder does the job.

Thanks guys, I definatly think somethings is up with my rear drums, there was alot of play in the pedal before I did the conversion.

Thanks,

Richard