Thanks for the info on the PCV and breather plumbing. I'm getting hte picture now. Bad news about the GX manifold - I really am not looking forward to hacking it back up. Depending on the quality of the welding that closed it up in the first place I could really be asking for trouble. Actually I wasnt told it was modified when I bought it - I probably would have waited around for an unmolested one to come along if I"d known. I guess I need a long tip on a grinder of some sort?

Anyway as for the breather on the valve cover - it turns out it does just pull off. I wasn't puling too hard before because I didn't want to break anything but after looking at some pics in the galleries I decided that that was really the only way it could easily be attached. OH and yeah it was completely full of grime and crap.

Here's a pic of the cover (after chemical stripping of the 3 or so layers of paint). Once I get those last remnants of paint off I'll move on to finer grit. Not sure how far I'll go with the polishing - probably just until I can't really see scratches anymore.

BTW the carbs are 510 SSS carbs. I'm going to trade them in for a rebuilt set when the time comes, and I need a linkage assy built.

B310gx - I was planning to use stub stacks and K&N's like the picture below:




Those stacks act like the small ram jets on the stock air clean if it looks like I'm thinking it does on the inside. I know it doesn't face forward but still the stub stacks have a similar effect. What do you think?

michael





Here's a pic of the Billet variety:

i never did anything more than strip mine, it looks fine. the mechanix scratched it up a bit putting the engine in, but it's more than good enough.

Remember that the 510 carbies use larger needles. 12.5 air/fuel ratio is ideal, so you may need to 1) lean it out or 2) use a big cam which will give you poor idle.

well the breather you have is one of those common generic things that cost $7.00 from your local auto parts store, and they usually push in with a rubber boot to hold it on, mine had a hose clamp to hold mine on there when i got it, so if it doesn't have one it may have been a tight fit and over time with it getting hot the rubber may have become hard. i's try and remove the rubber boot before using a hacksaw on it so that you don't drop any filings into the engine. might not be the best for it. try a stanley knifeon the rubber boot, and see if you can cut it off.

Fixing the welded up holes in the manifold shouldn't be too hard. Unless i miss my guess, the weld material is only aluminium & that should be a lot easier to work with than steel.

The original manufacturer drilled it from one end & if you remove the core plug that fills the external hole, you should be able to work on the first welded end without too much trouble. Once you have opened it up with a high speed stone, or drilled it very carfully with a smaller drill & opened it out with a file, you should be able to send a long drill down the original drilled passage unrill you reach the other end & simply drill through the weld.

A machine shop should be able to do this without too much drama. To finish off, simply replace the core plug with a new one.

they look like they'll work.it's usually the longer the better,& the stock ram tubes are about an inch high.i can still remember (& savour) the torque that an a14 with gx carbs & the standard air cleaner made.from idle it would just pull to redline.it had more torque than the efi a14 i replaced it with.i could drive it around all day in 5th gear(f5w60l).it really annoys me that i could have done similar with an a15 into a b210.instead i gave it a 'mild' cam & a 32/36 dgv weber.now it idles like a rotary,& stumbles on transition from the idle circuit to the main circuit.because it's off a ford 2l pinto engine,its not really adjustable,either.i'm thinking of trying to find a 32 dgv weber off an early english escort 1300 gt.i dont think thats going to be easy.

b310gx - aptfast.com also sells these big ram jets: ram jets but I think they won't work for K&Ns. The opening would be too close to the chrome plate on the filters which would obstruct air flow. They're for sock type filters which I dont' really want.

matbighat - thanks for that info. Ztherapy is goign to provide the rebuilt sets and I think if I give him the specs of my engine he'll provide the best needles for my application. He's a Hitachi/SU expert so I'll just leave it to him. At the same time I am getting a mild street grind on my cam so maybe that'll help a little.

Team-dat - yup it was held on with a piece of hose. I thought it was a gasket at first.

Dodgeman - thanks for that info. I'll give it a shot myself and if I get in over my head I'll send it to a shop.

b210sleeper - I'm trying to get a very minor "bling" factor in my engine bay. Not all polished and chromed out but just some details that stand out.

I think that covers everyone. Thanks for all the hlep guys -
michael