maybe if you weld it while in the car an weld the splines together......maybe? my previous car , a low 1000, had a locker and it was fine but i really just dont wanna brake an axel in the new one, what do people recon my chances of not having a problem is?

Just remember that locked difs are illegal for street use. Have you ever wondered why?

Also, if you lose it in the wet as a result of having no lateral [sideways] traction, & you are involved in an accident, your insurance company can wipe you like a dirty, ... ummm ..... rectum. Cars that have been deliberately modified to an "unroadworthy" spec are not covered by the policy. Just something else to think about.

Go the spin resistant type LSD, & be carefull in the wet.

what do you mean a spin resistant LSD dont they all resist spin.
dodge, i would love a good lsd but there so expensive and from what i hear they can get loose after a couple of months.
Elliott

Elliott I only know about welded diffs in Datsun H (Hitachi) diffs and you cant weld them up in the car.

If you can easily get an LSD for the diff you are installing I doubt you would be able to wreck it with the power your engine is putting out and the light weight of your car.

Really if you can get an LSD it is the best option.

LSD's fall into two basic categories. Spin resistant & positive locking.

The Detroit Locker is the best known of the positive lockers & they work exceptionally well, but unless you have a 4wd or a drag car, then don't touch one with a barge pole. I fitted one to a Falcon /Warner rear axle assembly & tested it for some months as an official Telecom trial. In the hands of a skilled driver, they can be really good. In the hands of an average Joe, they can easily become the source of grief in the blink of an eye.

The spin resistant type is the most widely known & used. They use either spring loaded washer packs, or flat clutch disc setups. Basicly they use friction to give a partially locked diff.
I say partially as the spring pressure on the friction devices is supposed to be low enough to allow normal diff action when cornering, however, if one wheel slips, as in, when one wheel is on the sealed road, & one is in the mud, the friction to the axle on the road is enough to provide positive drive & allow you to reive on.
They effectively delay the point where one wheel breaks loose. You will need to abuse it pretty bad to loosen it up in a couple of months.

Ask 1200rallycar how long his axle lasted in his welded diff, & ask him to repeat his glowing recomendation for welded difs.

i know i would rather an LSD over a locker for sure but if its goin to cost me an arm and a leg i'll probably just weld it or mini-spool it.
so can anyone tell me if later model falcon LSDs will fit straight into the 28 spline r31 borgwarner? or will i have to get the skyline LSD?

Thanks for all your help.
Elliott

Hi Elliot
I have an R31 LSD in my 1200 ute that I race on a regular basis. They are actually quite strong and also cheap to rebuild. I have been told by several people that the cones are still available new from Nissan for $90.
I know of an RX7 drag car that does 1.3 second 60 foot times that is still using the same diff as mine and has never needed a rebuild.
Have you thought about buying a wrecked or cheap R31 Silhouette, pilfering the diff and then selling off the panels, motor, alloys etc? You will probably come out ahead dollars wise.
Regards Matty

Quote:
An EA or EB Falcon LSD will fit straight into the R31 diff housing - that's what I'm using.
VL Commodore too & I think some later models....... VN / VP but you'll have to qualify that.

Some info re spools and welded lockers.
A welded diff centre basically behaves the same as a spool centre, they both provide a way of giving direct drive to the rear axles.
They both also put lots of load on the rest of the driveline, especially gearboxes and axles, the problems usually show up if you are thrashing the car through tight left then right corners where lots of steering lock is required. When you hear things like "you get axle wind up" then those loads have to go somewhere and it usually transfers the loads to other driveline bits. Ever herd the common "wanted to buy" AXLES because someone runs a locker on the street
As for having to replace both axles if you break one with a welded centre - what a load of sh1t. You weld the diff centre not the axles
All this points to why manufactures put LSD's into production cars, they are usually a way of transfering power or torque smoothly and progressively without sending large shock loads to the rest of the driveline.
I can not understand why someone would buy a spool when a cheap welded centre will do the same thing.

because "welding" the centre changes the metallurgial properties of the centre.

we're talking about hi-tensile material here, so to make the weld a "proper" weld and completely failsafe, after welding you need to heat the whole centre up to a dull orange and then let it cool slowly. then heat it up to an almost yellow colour, then let it cool slowly.

then the weld will be of the same quality as the surrounding material.

welded centres in frequent drag racing use WILL fail - which is why all the top guys use full spools. you don't want a weld to bust under full power and transerring 90% of the load to the unbusted weld, which makes the car lurch sideways, then makes that weld bust and then the car swings the OTHER way and then you are back to a single spinner with bits of weld floating around inside the housing running the risk of them jaming the gears and porviding full rear lock up - - - all at 100+mph.