how much did he want for it,there could be some sports 1300 guys interested.did you mention toyota t50 conversion.the option 2 box was for racing in japanese domestic series,see the photos on the site,lots of 1200's being raced.god,i wish i'd got that one from new zealand.i suppose you could get some 13's or 14's with taller tyres to increase the top speed.oh,& i hope you've got some discs lined up to replace the front drums.someone on datnet has a tech article on it,see http.//datnet.org/new/techinfo/1000brakeupgrade.shtml,though i'd used datsun 1200 coupe hubs instead of modifying the 1000 hubs.a friend of mine here in sydney has a conversion using jaguar 11 inch solid discs & 200b calipers if you like big brakes,& some 13 inch mags will fit over this.what style 1000 is it in,coupe,ute,sedan,wagon????

sorry,just went to the web site & it's someting i didn't even mention,a 2 door sedan,the lightest of the light.definitely need a brake conversion with that single cylinder master.a 1200 coupe or sunny will bolt in,you just have to change over the rod on the sunny master cylinder.getting new brake lines made up is just a case of getting a brake & clutch place to make new ones,just use welding rod to give them an idea of how they should go.this with a disc brake conversion should be high on your list of things to do to survive.oh,use the splitter block from a 1200 for the front brakes.i had a 1000 coupe with an a12 we used to race here in nsw,so i've got some knowledge of 1000's,like they're a 100 kilos lighter than 1200's.the all up weight of my 1000 was 710 kilos across the weight bridge at eastern creek,that was with an a15,an overdrive gearbox,cage & a full tank of fuel.it did 125 mph with the overdrive box & a 4.1:1 diff ratio on 175/60x13 tyres.this was before i bought it & put the a12 into it,with a gx 5 speed,& a 4.9:1 diff.lost a lot of top speed,but it was used for hillclimbs.was known for it's burnouts & powerslides,& was used in a commercial for king edward park hillclimb in the middle of newcastle for a couple of years.yell if you need to know anything else,always ready to show off my experiences(boasting,boasting,always boasting).

I have actually spoken to the guy who wrote that article (neil) , he is in perth too.
he actually works in a brake place and did that as a quick and easy conversion, he has experimented with different size but reckons the laser calipers are the easiest.
he also reckons ditch the pressure operated brake light switch and fit a pedal operated one. hopefully he will pop around and give me a hand when its time to do mine..

oh I almost forgot, he also has 3-4 1000s himself one of which is a super sedan and another that is being built on a full chassis.. take a look :

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/v ... =999&gid=129601&uid=60227

b310gx, could you help me identify what the gearboxes I have are and where they might have come from.

I have 3 gearboxes sitting on my shed floor at the moment. 2 have 56A stamped on the bellhousing with drain plugs at the bottom facing backwards. One has what looks like a second reverse switch?? Its located just below and back from the clutch fork (cable clutch). I assume these are standard Datsun 1200 4 speed boxes. They do look slightly different from each other as one is smooth on the outside and one has casting web/ribs on the outside.

The other box has nothing stamped on it anywhere. Exept for two small number 8's on the top of the actual gearbox part on either side of a web/rib. It has (A) 2306535 stamped on the very top flat part of the bellhousing where it bolts to the motor. It has the reverse switch on the side.
The thing I cant understand is the gear lever will move up to where 5th would be (normal shift pattern). I doubt this is a 5spd box, could my reverse gear be stuffed and it somehow allows me to shift up to 5th (above reverse).

Thanks for any help

the box with the webs on it is probably 1200 or 120y and the smooth box is from an A14 SUNNY and its a bit stronger I think but the other one i don't know about but it could be a 5 speed. Try turning the input sharft and count the turns on the other end. put an old clutch plate on the sharft to count the turns
hope this helps

Cheers for that info olboy. So you reckon the smooth 'box could be a stronger gearbox ...hmm..thats a bonus.

I check the ratios as you said, and they were pretty close to the factory specs for a four speed, give or take for my dodgy readings:

1st - 3.75:1
2nd - 2.1:1
3rd - 1.4:1
4th - 1:1

This is where it gets interesting

Apparent 5th - 2:1
Reverse - 2:1

So its not a 5 speed and reverse gear is too low, shouldnt it be about 3.64:1 as the book says? I take it that this means that the gearbox is shagged as it has a 5th where there isnt supposed to be one. Any ideas?

hokay,here's my best guess,the two 56a boxes are a12 4 speeds,one first with ribs is 1200,the second with no ribs is either 120y or sunny.the second 'reversing light'switch is a top gear switch for emissions.this turned off the vaccum advance to the distributor in any gear but 4th,note the different spade connections so you can't get them mixed up with the reversing light switch.the third box is just a 4 speed that is worn in the shift mechanisms,this allows the shifting rods to go into a position where there isn't really a gear.have been caught once or twice myself in wreckers with this one,but a quick check of the actual box put me right.the gearbox is still alright to use,just don't try to flat change into 5th.the way to tell an a14 gearbox from an a12 is the distance between the bellhousing( the part that bolts to the engine) & the front bulkhead of the gearbox (the part the throw out bearing housing bolts to).this is longer on the a14 boxes,4 or 5 speed,resulting in a clutch fork with a right angle at the end.if the clutch fork is there,this is another quick way of checking what type of gearbox you have.yet another way to check is to just pick the thing up.the a14s are heavier enough that you notice the difference in effort.i've been told the best gearbox to use of the two a12 boxes is the 1200,as it has a stronger bearing were the cluster gear sits in the front bulkhead,not a needle roller like in the 120y or sunny(b310).i've been told these early boxes will take 200 hp,though i've never seen this myself.

you might want to check those valve sizes you gave me b310, as my 1000 manual lists the A10 as having 35 & 29mm inlet and exhaust valves respectively

also show us some pics of your 1000!
I dont believe we have been introduced, so my name is Tom.. is there something I can call you other than b310gx? ;)

I would eventually like to rally my b10 maybe.. the only concern is getting strength into the body seeing there are no strut towers to brace...

*dreams of toyota 4ag powered datto*

I have to disagree about the strongest gearbox theory. The 120Y is definately the stronger 4 speed. It has bigger bearings, wider gears and extra internal webbing to stop the case twisting. The factory developed the 120Y box from what they learnt racing the B110s in the early 70s. They even went to the trouble of homologating the 120Y box for the B110.