Wow had a great practise day in my coupe

currently my suspension mods are stanza struts sunny springs and shocks with the bottom arm cut and welded for 20mm extra length

ute diff and coupe springs with the threads cut down a bit further on the U bolts so they did up nice and tight

had two problems
understeer and high speed cornering rear end grip

fixed with 120y frount sway bar with bluebird rear progressive springs fitted (cut thicker end) and fittiing of pannard on the rear

Cant belive how much fun it is now

how much negative camber did 20mm give you?

it's much nicer if you dont have to fight it all day
cheers

not sure mate's gauge dont read high enough

enough to get pulled over buy cops for having neg camber LOL

its quite visiable

Sounds good, hopefullI have now fixed rear high speed grip with new car with 2 degrees neg camber in back axle housing.
A cheap method of doing this is to run a weld along the top of each side of the axle housing.When the weld cools it bends the axle housing and gives you negative camber in rear. All you need is approx 1 to 2 degrees

yeah thats something ive seen done before

I was interested in removing the problems first then focusing on the benfits

neg on the rear is certainly a serious consideration

how long a weld did you place on you diff

All the way along. Do it again until desired results are achieved

Big V with any handling problem you must determine under what condition. Does the understeer occur at entrance,apex or exit? Also the high speed oversteer , what condition?
As for the big negative camber , that works great for turning but under braking the car will very likely be weaving around on the inner two inches of the tires making the car darty on the brakes. I bring this up because it is a familiar set-up problem....the car is a tiny bit darty on the brakes so instead of trail braking into the apex the driver gets back on the gas to settle the car , which in turn unloads the front end and presto you get understeer.
If your car has to much toe in you will likely have to trail the brakes all the way to the apex anything less will result in undesteer.
Toe out will of course make it darty on the brakes and likely result in high speed over steer. Mismatched sway bars front to rear will cause this as well. If the rebound on the rear dampers is a couple of clicks to stiff the car will likey oversteer in fast kinks and undsteer in medium sweepers. The car will jack down over bumps unloading the front end , progressively building understeer.
Driver factors in here as well; I steer a car with the pedals , read trailbraking and throttle steer. Most experianced drivers rave about the handling but one friend who has driven it , thought it understeers a bit. He isn't the smoothest driver and tries to pinch the wheel while on the gas....simply won't work.
sorry to be so verbose but without knowing the conditions and your driving style it is hard to say; My guees at this point would be check the toe and soften the car up a touch so it is not skating around so much. Also if the tire temps permit I wouldn't run more than 2 dergree negative camber.

Tom

all in all the car was neutral on the day and fitting the panard and softening springs did the trick always love a bit of input though for setup and driving

thanks tom today wasn't a waste of time after all , i learnt a fair bit out of that thanks

Geoff