but did post a nice pic to assist too.

hi Abyss
I have this switch on my 1977 120y A12 motor. It has to do with the emission control stuff.
I took a lot of it off, but I left these wires connected to the switch.
I just dissconnected the wires up further near the carby.
The butterfly in the exhaust manifold only allows hot air to flow under the carby when the motor is cold.
It won't effect anything, by having extractors on it, as I have extractors on my other 120y and it still performs very well.

Ok, those wires from this part lead back to a unit at the rear of the intake manifold (behind the carby) so I bypassed that with a new piece of vacuum hose. It didn't really make much difference Should I also be disconnecting the unit at the front that can be seen in the original picture?

The other question I have is what do other people set their timing at? I have mine set on the factory 7 degrees but I am thinking that I might up it to 10 degrees (it seems to idle smoother at 10 )

Thoughts?

Do not disconnect the hoses at the solenoid unit at the front of the manifold, unless you understand how it works and how to bypass it. Read my previous post for the reason why it's unnecessary to remove it. Basically it will not affect performance if the wire is disconnected.

For initial timing, whether 5, 7, or 10 degrees, you should experiment. 10 is way too much for my A12. Instructions on how to do it are in our Ignition Timing & Distributor Installation article:Quote:Also see Tune-Up Information for basic timing. Every A12 should run very good at 5 degrees, for a starting place. Don't worry about acheiving "smoothest idle" -- that justs wastes fuel and causes more emissions. It won't give you more power, you're just idling ... The Tune-up article explains how to adjust the idle air/fuel mixture.

look my theroy is just get rit of all the sh!t u dont need. coz on my 1200 engin i just hav a webber of a 2L escort thing runs like a dream. also head has been deaked a fear bit timing advanced up 2 bout 12-14deg and used 2 run optermax all the time. the earlyer 1200 didnt even hav that sensor ther. so i wouldn realy worry bout it

Abyss, do you have a photo of the part on the rear of the manifold that you are talking about?

I don't but I can get one and put it up tonight/tomorrow.

I might see if I can find something similar on here, might be lucky.

Ok, this is the little culprit:





This is the "thing" that I bypassed. The vacuum advance on the distributor connected to the right hand side of this and then the left hand side connected to the carby.

Odd, that's what the solenoid on the front of the manifold does (cut spark advance signal) on the earlier cars.

In any case, you can't hurt performance by connecting the ported vacuum at the carb directly to the distributor. If this becomes bypassed, so be it.

Those things with the wires coming out are thermal switches for the car's electric choke and vacuum routing to get the car's emissions system warmed up quick.

If you had to replace one, i have no idea where to get them maybe the dealership or the junkyard. I had one with a wire off it, I think i took it out of the intake and re-soldered the wire to it.

if you have a weber carb with water or manual choke then you wouldn't need those.