Guys..I need help here. I have a stock A15 installed in my B310 for 3 yrs. Ever since planning to convert it to CA18DET. But, now planning to build up my A15 ( stage 3 perhaps)

Questions..

1.) Carbs- Which one would u ppl suggest? Twin webers or twin S.U's

2.) Head- how much is safe to be ported ?
How much skimming is recommended?
How about valves & springs?

3.) Engine - How much of bore increase?..Any pistons that u guys would recommend to fit in?..I mean the closest bore and stroke lenght..or the least modification done to rods.

Bearings anyone?

Which crank will best match?

Distributor?- Contact Point / Electronic?

Cam's?

For now, i have already installed thermo fans as a replacement for the stock pulley fan. Fuel pumps are also changed ( electric ) from Nissan Bluebird.

Im planning to rev the engine close to 10000rpm.

Thank you for any available information

you could contact Jeff Taylor for a JTS head fitted with double valve springs and big oval ports, try datrats for a reconditioned Bluebird dizzy with A series drive gear, carbs seem to be pretty good whether they are dellorto DHLA, weber DCOE or the hitachi su types I would say what ever you find at the right price, with the right jets installed for a 1500cc engine or what your displacement would be after boring out, sturt wilkins motorsport for all your gaskets, bearings, camshaft and other engine parts. 10,000RPM is a hell of a big task maybe need to look at roller rockers which need a bit of modification done to the guide plates to fit them, possibly dry sump lubrication, fully balanced bottom end and I am not sure how a dizzy would handel that RPM so possibly may need crank angle electronic ignition but even then 10,0000rpm is a bit errr explosive everything is just under so much pressure not only in the engine but also the clutch, flywheel water pump alternator and pressure plate but it would be pretty cool to watch a tacho needle hit the big 10

Why does it need to rev to 10,000rpm?

Or do you mean just a high revving engine?

A15's will rev to 10k all day.




(once a couple rods come loose and go flying through your hood)

You will want to make sure that the flywheel is secure at 10,000 rpm.

Get a 2 Stroke

Carbs:-

Twin 45mm
or 50mm quad throttle bodies with Motec contact Sidedraught he (i think ia selling a setup like this)
will prob work out the same price for each setup. You can get second hand 45's for prob $600 plus $150 for manifold and it will cost maybe $800 for rebuild and tune.
(worst case scenario)


Head:-

Get Jeff at JTS to do it for monster ports and valves doulbe springs and right decking around $1300 (cheap) 11:1 comp
BP5ES NGK plugs
vortex 98 unleaded

Engine:-

Forged oversized pistons
factory rods
bored to 1600cc
knife edged crank
lightened flywheel
factory bearings
factory oil pump
remote oil filter / cooler setup ( recommend permacool )
shell helix

Distributor:-
I just got a JTS one from Jeff.
Its a remapped and modified E series pulsar engine electronic type $350 (well worth the money)

Cam

54/86

Cooling

Gemini TF radiator with any thermo you can find

Exhaust

4-2-1 extractors with 2 1/2 inch mild steel exhaust and sports muffler

Stage 1
I would get head/cam and induction done first with electronic dizzy and lightened flywheel radiator and oil cooler.
this will give about 110rwhp at 7500rpm
All this will give you your biggest improvement for least money (approx $2000-$2500 plus your induction choice)

Stage 2
do boring and knifedging and forgies ($2000)
this will give you 125rwhp at 8500rpm

OR

You can buy a stock SR20 with loom and gearbox for $1200 and youll have 125rwhp stock!!

The engine you are talking about building will cost the earth.
I have nearly finished my A15, which has had a lot of modifying performed on it. I sat down the other day and added up what I have spent. Not including the things I couldn't remember, it came to $2000. This does not include, the pistons, machine work to the block, or carburation, or headers. This motor was all done "on the cheap" too.
If you are new to building motors, you will learn fast that it ends up costing alot. You can build a tough A15, for reasonable $$$ but to build an "Ultimate" A15, you will end up better off to save for a CA.

Thats my 2c.

e15t forged crank machined to fit a15 recommended by speedway dude who runs ohc e15t on a series or a huge 90mm stroke crank for torque from the e16.

For what purpose do you need this 10,000 rpm "ultimate" a15 motor?

What gearbox and diff centre would you be running with this monster?

Have a look at my photo album and you will see some of the "bolt-ons" you will need to get you up to at least 125hp at the wheels