The rear is std. Adjustable spring platforms and spring tops were added to the shocks. The factory leaves (minus 1 leaf) are used to locate the differential.

Spring rates are yet to be decided. The front is running some springs that were lying around the factory and there are no coilover springs in the back yet. That is what shall be involved in the testing when it is rego'd.

Craig

Hiya NoPSI.
Sounds like a damn fine swap.
My 2 cents worth, the bottom arm needs to be the same length as the steering arm, otherwise , as Erol pointed out, you'll get bumpsteer that you cant fix with spacers.

Moving the holes in the crossmember outwards may mean you end up with a steering arm longer than the suspension arm, and no good will come of this! (try fixing bumpsteer in a mini some day)

Consider moving the top of the strut inwards to give yourself more camber, it doesnt give you as much increased track, and wont mess your bumpsteer around as much..

Having said all this, bumpsteer is usually the last thing to get tuned out of any circuit car, and with the high spring rates and limited suspension travel involved, doesnt make as much difference as on say a gravel car...

A little forethought now however can save you a lot of grief later!!

I agree with moving the strut top inwards also. This will be happenning thanks to some adjustable strut tops I am getting made up. Looking to be able to get around the 4deg mark if needs be. Fingers crossed on the bump steer issue. The suspension arm ( I assume you are talking about the strut) is pretty long when connected up to the S13 spindle so hopefully I won't have too many problems. I'll let everyone know how it drives when I have it on the road.

Craig

hey there did u still using stock steering box or change it to rack already ?? i using it also but the its make the box easyly free hmm

More track= fwd offset wheels= gay

Quote:

wow - thread revival! Craig hasn't had the car for years now and doesn't get on here anymore. The car still had the standard steering box.

Not sure what you mean by "its make the box easyly free hmm", but it had nothing to do with the fact its steering box instead of rack. Sounds like you have too much freeplay which means wear in some of the steering components.

Is anyone getting bumpsteer issues with this setup as mentioned? Im un certain which direction i should go stanza,s13,r31 or any others. BTW its a setup for my ca18 1200 ute

deep dish wheels = massive overload on outer bearing = bearing falure =$ but they do look cool

didnt read most of the read because the title really tells it all.
Personally i think its a bit stupid to put s13 strut assembly and lower arms in a 1200. Its just so unneccesary. What are you really getting from it? Height adjustment, better brakes, increased track (not neccesarily a good thing). Why bother with all that crap when you fit the s13 brakes to kb110 struts and convert them to coilovers quite easily. I mean if you can do the s13 strut setup into a 1200 you should more than be able to do coilover and s13 brakes on 1200 struts.

Non oem struts in 1200's/most cars is stupid without looking at what you really have done. As said before, you're completely messing up the suspension geometry.

EDIT: sh*t i didnt see how ancient this thread is, lame

Yeah feeding strawberries to a pig.