thanks Donnie, appreciate it.

as far as the NOS goes, i'd be very interested (Injection Perfection did a A15 running NOS apparently) but the STREET LEGAL issue is a problem, i don't want trouble with the boys in blue.
which, also rules out a 2.4L motor.
as far as V6's go, are there any small (block) no bigger then 2.0L engines that make decent power? an RB20 first comes to mind, but it would be almost impossible to fit without major fabrication. another option is an IS200 motor, but from reports they seem abit "gutless"

blown1400, did you build your s/c engine? or did you pay someone to do it? if so, how much (if you don't mind me asking) did it cost.
Cheers,
Tom

As far as fabrication, ther was a bit to make it fit. First, the toy motor has a front sump oil pan, actually shorter than the a12, so you can position it lower in the chassis. Because the 5 speed tranny is larger than the Dat one this is a good thing. I had to modify the x-member for the mounts to fit right. The toy has different angles from lhs to rhs in regards to mount location. Not a biggie. I gave the tranny a bit more room by cutting out the tunnel and making up a slightly taller one with the shifter hole located farther back(about 2 inches). The biggest thing that had to be done was a fabricated hedder, because the Toy manifold was too large and wouldn't clear the steering box. You may not have any trouble with a rhd car though. I used the stock 1200 rad too.
Sorry for the long post. Any more specific Q's, just pm me.
-Donnie

From memory, my s/c a14 is putting out about 125 hp at the wheels. I have to admit that the hp figure was not what I was interested in.

TORQUE is what gives you the push in the back, and TORQUE is what makes the thing pull instantly off idle.

Turbo's are good. Toyota motors are good. Race prepped motors are good, but the only prob with all of these is that you have to rev the nuts off them to get the big hp figures.

Get blown dude, you won't regret it...

L20 bored out to 2.4 with lots of work, 48s or 45s hanging of it, would be very very intresting would be heaps of OLD SKOOL grunt!!!

i will speak for "Madtimo" cause he is absent, he would suggest one motor cough.. cough.. Rotary, plenty of go and different. Thats if it stirs your cup of tea personally i would stick Nissan, and would like to dream of a LZ motor one day !!!!

What about a V6 or a ca18de s/charged??? or like a14force said NOS!!!!

Hi,
The reason i don't want CA18DET (my first choice) is that every man and his dog seems to be doing it nowadays. I want a car that will surprise a fair few people at the lights, without relying on a snail to get me there.

Q: How do A15 engines respond to boring? ie. Boring from a 1500 to a 1600/1700 motor?

also, Donnie, How much fabrication had to be done in order to fit a 4AGE? In my heart i'd prefer a Nissan, but if i can make it run well (and achieve my goal) then its no question of loyalty.
Cheers,
Tom

Stick a N2O bottle on it. As long as you dont go silly she'll be fine.

Thanks DVLDAT and tsillay for that info,that info was a great help as i dont want to spend too much as i plan to upgrade to CA18DET. What would i expect to pay for such work and what power figures should i achieve??

Does anyone know of any CA16 cams about, ive been searching Sydney, Aus for some time now with no luck.

Cheers Henry

Can someone please help me identify my diff, a pic is in the photos section-Henry

mm, go the CA18DE normally aspirated.
I've done a CA16DE N/A, got 107 wheel KWs, but it needed a fair bit of work and a few RPM to make it happen...

The CA18DE has bigger inlet valves than the 1600, same stroke but more bore, so it's a much better starting point. They're a joy of an engine, the modern long stroke stuff (SR etc) cant come close to the free-reving happiness of a CA...

hay UTE18L
if i were looking for more power outer a N/A fuel injected ca18de motor i would do the folowing on a budget:
1x ga16de cam (more lift) cheaper option proven more power through out rev range.
2x get throttle body machined out slightly bigger.
3x remove the restricting plastic inbetween the pod (filter) to the trottlebody, replace with metal pipe also preferebly cold air inducted..
4x head work, ca18 motor really open up after having head work done.. rev better and much more power. can get anything from port and polish 2 a full 3000$ race head.
5x a good set of tuned length extractors will make a bg difference.
6x ive heard that a set of quad throttle bodys on the non turbo motor really make a difference which u would prolly have 2 run a aftermarket ECU 2 get the the bet outer them.

hope al this info gives u a better idea on what can be done to these motors...