any ideas of the power an a14 can produce before failure occurs? eg crank damage.

How much power can an A14 produce before it goes BANG?
Thats gotta be a rubber question.

The maximum power output that can be sustained, say, for 24 hours continuous, as in an industrial application, will be a lot less than the power output that can be sustained for just 10 seconds, as in a drag engine.

Is this hypothetical engine to be used on the street, or racing?
How often, & for roughly how long, will it see maximum power?
How much money are you prepared to invest in something that may be reduced to scrap in the blink of an eye?
How much money have you got? [I don't really want to know, just as long as you know.]
Thats why it is a very stretchy question.

The cost of reliable additional power rises on an ever steepening curve, so financial resources tie in very closely here.
EDIT...
Take a look at the A13 engine on Feral's "Datrats" website, A very reliable engine with a high power output. Don't even think about the price.

I have heard of A series putting out as much as 200 horsepower all done up that ran like hell, but don't think they lasted very well because of all the tricks in the book used to get it there (Big cam, lots of compression, lightened parts). You'd probably be changing bearings often with something like that.

I think the most reliable way to get a lot of power from an A series would be through forced induction, although it wouldn't be cheap. This way you wouldn't have to go too crazy with engine work, just strengthen things up a bit w/forged low comp. pistons and maybe some heavy duty rods/rod bolts, ARP head studs, bigger valves and some headwork, and you could get a lot of power more reliably and easier than NA, but pricing isn't gonna be friendly either way.

Hmmm...... sounds like I should buy a rusted out 300zx turbo and drop the v6 into my coupe. That otta move things along.

i have just assembled the a14 in question,oversized flat top pistons and a large camshaft have been fitted.the head has had the ports enlarged and polished, and decked to acheive a 10.2:1 cr. the inlet manifold has been modified to fit a single weber carb from a 2.0L ford escort.this manifold has been opened up and should flow very well.The whole engine has been balanced, and i am currently modifing the ports on the 'GENIE' extractors. was wondering strength of crankshaft and related internals as direct port nitrous is also being installed.this engine will be used for street and drag racing.

The lower end of these motors are quite robust. there is a modification that can be done to open up the oil galleries in the block and crank. But if your gonna be squirtin juice into it I'd be more concerned with piston failure. forged slugs are outrageously priced.

Quote:

I have a 300C dual tray limo ute???? ( the boot/trunk is the dirty tray) and where the back seat was is for the clean parts (the clean tray). I use this for my parts pickup vehicle. Its just about to come of the road and the body turned into razor blades in Japan.

My new 300C (mint one owner) has been fitted with an import Pathfinder late VG30 dual throttle body, twin plenum side-mount injector,engine. It will be hitting the road in about a week or so. This means the old girls drive train will soon be redundant.

It has done 365,000 km's on the original engine and still gave 9 litres per 100km economy in town with the Z31 manual box fitted. 2200 rpm @ 100kph

After a rebuild of the VG30E, I think a B310 Sunny would be good with a S12 Gazelle H190 rear axle and the 300C engine and manual box. I have a Haltech E6A I can use to replace the stock computer. I bet it will understeer like a dog though!

Ah well lets see what happens, power to weight would be good though.

Edit 27/3/2004, I think the VG30 from my 300C would be good in a sunny. Good grunt and good economy.

Ke?.....