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Same question, particularly since the spindle parts were dimentionally the same from '67 up to may '76, & possibly even later.

Sorry Guys,
I think i have made an error, I think I retained the original 1000 Stub axles. the 1200 (or 120y) rotors and hubs bolted on,

I'm not 100% sure I'm using the right terminology, the stub axle is the conical bit that the wheel bearing spins on isnt it? I did this swap a few years ago and my memory isn't too crash hot.

Thats cool. Jempson your right with what the stub axles are.

Dodgeman is the part that you refer to a spindle the same as what we are calling stub axle? If so I dont think they were the same size, as I once fitted up the 120Y disks off my old 1200 ( the smaller 120Y disks, not like the stanza ones) onto my 1000 stub axles and I remember having to use the 1000 bearings in the 120Y disks as the centre race of the 120Y bearings was to large in diameter. Also the 1000 stub axles were only just long enough to spin the hub nut on but not near far enough to fit a split pin through.
Could there quite possibly have been a few sizes? or are the measurement you are refering to actually the outer race sizing of the bearings and the hubs?

dattoman 1000
i have looked at your website regarding the kc laser disc conversion and am wondering why you welded the four nuts to the back of the hub.
i realise that you have bolted the disc to the hub this way but isn't this an un-nesecary step.
i have seen on other cars that use two small bolts to hold the disc on but even still the wheel would hold everything on.
dont get me wrong i think the set up is great but i plan on doing something similar and want to know the reason for four 12mm bolts.

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The stub axle was originally the whole piece that was held to the axle, or upright by the kingpin. It mounted the backing plate as well as the hub. This was sometimes also refered to as the spindle, & loosely speaking, the terms are interchangeable.
Time marches on & king pins are history. Generally speaking, in a Datsun 1000, the stub axle incorporates the uprights as well as it is all one piece.

The spindle is actually the part of the stub axle that the bearings & seal mounts on & these are dimentionally the same for 1000's, 1200's, & 120Y's up untill May '76 [to the best of my knowledge]
120Y sedans were localy made from that time & many parts of local manufacture were used.

CORRECTION
My 1984 Repco catalogue lists the front wheel bearings, & the grease seal, as being the same for all our small Datsuns from '66 up to November '75, so the chances are, Steve, that you had a hub from a December '75 or later built 120Y.

Meanwhile, back at the spindle, i refered to this because it is possible to use a factory made hub, & non ventilated disc [rotor] on a stock 1000 spindle / stub axle [pick one] if ones brake conversion was to be low cost, easier to do [perhaps] & if the braking performance requirements were not too ambitious.

The hard part is to come up with a caliper that will fit without seriously affecting the steering lock & suspension travel, can be adapted easily to the stub axle, is compatible with the disc rotor in thickness & diameter, & has a piston diameter that is very close to the 48.1mm diameter of the 1200 & early 120Y brake caliper.
Oh yeah, they need to be reasonably cheap & readily available too.

Unfortunately, the caliper from the aforementioned Datsuns is bulky & not really a suitable candidate for this conversion, & the caliper from the later 120Y is a little beaut, but has a seriously smaller piston diameter. Bummer.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Chris
Spindle? Stub?
You say potayto, i say potarto,.. etc...

OK cool, must be like you say, I dont know what year 120Y they were from as the guy I bought the 1200 off put them on.

I cant say how good my setup is till I finish the wagon and drive it, but like I mentioned ages probly a few years ago, is I am running XD,XF Ford etc, disk brakes and stub axles on my wagon. There is a bit involved to do this like;
Fiting the fords top and bottom ball joints to the 1000 control arms,
Redrilling the steering arm from the top to fit CRS tappered spacers to keep tie rod angles right,
Moving the bumpstop in to the crossmembers outside mounting bolt position and modifying the crossmember by removing the old bumpstop mount (so the caliper doesnt foul on the crossmember while turning)
And due to the offset of the wheels to fit within the guards no smaller than 15" wheels as 14"s with this offset foul on the caliper.
Like I said I cant say how good they are till I actually drive it.
One thing I have to look further into is the bottom ball joints, as Ted Robinette pointed out to me that the ford springs forces down on the top balljoint while the 1000 forces onto the bottom balljoint. But with a bit of investigating this will be overcome.

Oneday ( soon I hope ) I will drive it again.
Only come off the road for some carpet and a stereo, a few years ago but one thing led to another. (like always I have plenty of time doing cars for customers but no time for mine) Oh well one day

I welded the bolt on in a dodgy attempt to get more metal for the disc to sit on and bolt too. This was 10 years or more ago and this is why I'm having hubs machined up now to do it properly. And also to remove the need for cutting the original drum up for a spacer.
The wheel won't hold the disc on because it bolts in from the back..........not over the hub. No car uses 2 bolts to hold the disc on that I have ever seen........minimum 4. 2 would be just plain dangerous. Some may have locating grub screws if the wheel holds the disc on but not for a disc on the back deal.

I'm not saying this conversion is the bees knees......its just one of many options out there for the 1000.