The wheels will spin very quickly, they dont seem to begin slowly (therefore giving me the oportunity to back off or let the brake go). This will happen at a touch under 3 grand. ihave not really paid too close attention to it,
(may have to go drop a skid to find out for sure )

your ideas sound good about the stall converter, but i may have to adress the "slipping" that the factory box gives... i have even started to think of other boxes that may suit my needs more. A few years back i remember 2 brothers built FJ20's in their utes, one with a manual box and the other with an auto.... can't think of what box it was though... the ford name rings a bell however.

would changing the box make any difference?

Hmmm, all my mopars have been 60s and 70s ones, but I never really noticed the higher stall speed.

I guess I could be wrong about whether it is stall speed or not. It seems like most of the newer cars have higher stall than the old V8s. Our Subaru and Mazda pickup both seem to have higher stall than my Ford V8, which is very "tight". I really dislike how the engine jumps up in revs immediately while the car is accelerating. With the 5-liter it seems much more "direct". But without it the Subaru probably wouldn't accelerate as well ... it's fairly gutless anyways, only 2.2 liters but 1300kgs or so (hope I got that right, 3350 pounds). The Ford weighs exactly the same, but has a 5-liter engine.

OK I have spoken to my mate and if you put in a transbrake this will solve all your problems! Cause your box is electronic this will make it easier to do once installed Just press the button to lock up the box accelerate to whatever RPM you want press the button when the lights go green and C
U bye (fast starts)


Changing box would be hard cause well have you ever seen the CA bell housing, you proably would have to go custom bell housing from dellows or something (dont know how much this will cost) I would recomend a turbo box just depends how many speed you want as to which one (theres heaps of them around, fairly small strong as, reliable and are behind nelly every holden V8)

I also asked if any work could could be done to CA18 autos to strengthen them but no not really was the answer just strengthening the bands is about all you could do (except trans brake and stall converter)

You could always change ya box to a CA manual!

WE WANT PHOTOS PLEASE

Check the photos of the coupe i seen for ya in my album this things a weapon!!!

hey nys the tiger gold fj20t ute ran a fully manualised C4 auto from a ford

I found the old magazine with that gold ute in ... that is one nice ute!

I like the idea of the trans brake, and might chase that idea up. thanks.

I am aware there is little to no work that has been done to strengthen the auto 180sx box (and am reluctant to spend the $) so im still open for ideas people.

I thought i'd take a bit more notice today on the way home from work, of what rpm the thing gets going at....

I was wrong at 3 grand, it's more like a little over 2 (guess i got carried away looking at the smoke rather than the tacho)

Anyway, i rode the brake and the tyres slipped at 2, i then let go and she did move alot better... but,
it feels "heavy".
What i mean by that is it has good mid and top end back lacks the punch in the seats that the manual will give- or the heavy wheel spin, whatever way you look at it (or drive).
am i being too picky or am i just not used to the more "sedate" auto???

(i keep thinking about that transbrake)

Ask your Auto mecanic how much the trans brake will be while your there get a price for a lock up converter

Let us know how it goes!

Will give you something to save for, nothing will fix your problem without costing a bit of money! Even if you change the box it will still cost a bit to get it fitted.

I recon transbrakes the go , any objections out there?

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All your Mopars were likely Aussie-built, and his were Detroit-built. That could make a huge difference.

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FWIW, some 280Zx's came with a lock-up converter stock. And you could switch it off and on from a switch on the dash.