Well I put the new carb on. It only took a few seconds for the carb to fill up with fuel (about 3/4 of the level sight glass). So it was idling real rough for a few minutes, so I started spraying it with carb cleaner to see if there were any leaks. For some reason it started idling a little more smoothly when it was very wet with cleaner (though I can't find a leak anywhere). I stopped it and restarted it and since then it won't idle at all. It'll rev when I step on the gas but the idle quickly falls and dies when I let off the gas. I've tried all positions of the idle adjust screw and it has no effect. Any other ideas how to fix this? The old carb idled very high, so maybe the previous did something to make it run with high idle? The PO also plugged almost every vac input and output near the carb, so nothing matches the manual - so I've got no idea where to start. Anyone know the minimum requirement to get it to run? I don't know which parts that are blocked off should or shouldn't be. Thanks for any more help

michael

here's a picture from the front anyway - let me know if any other angles would help because I've got lots of pics. Sorry it's a little big (150kb)
http://www.datsunprojects.org/mps210/carb1.jpg

see if you can get a FSM or atleast a haynes that shows how all the vacuum lines hook up. I had to re-do all of mine because someone unhooked stuff and it took a while to get it running right again.

what did you do with all of the placews on the carb that need hoses hooked up to them?

on my 81 the factory carb was very fussy about having all the hoses hooked up right.

Won't idle? Make sure you have the anti-diesel solenoid hooked up. It should 'click' if you connect/disconnect the wire (with ignition on).

3/4 up the site glass is too high ... need to pop the top off and adjust the float level.

thanks dd and sleeper,
The anti-diesel solenoid is hooked up. Also I've got a FSM, haynes and clymer but haven't been able to figure out much from them. I thought that these carbs would ususally run better without out all of the emissions stuff, so I'm hoping to get it to work like that. But maybe I'm wrong and I do have tohook all of that crap back up. I need an expert to come look at it wiht me i think, but I know no one. I can't even drive it to a shop right now. doh!
Michael

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If the carb didn't expect all that stuff it would run better. Like my webber. I think many people try to make the factory carb perform better, but it really works best as it was designed to work.

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Absolutely right!

If one is well versed in the operation of each of the emission control devices, knew how it worked, what it did, or didn't do, then one would be in a position to make an informed decision to remove, adjust. disable, or otherwise change things around.

If you dont know what it does, or how it works, then leave the thing alone & hook it up just like the book says.

The thing that gets me, is that most emissions stuff is removed to provide more top end power. It is also mostly vacuum powered, but when you give it full throttle [which is what you do to get max power] there is no vacuum to speak of anyway, so all the vacuum powered emissions stuff shuts down.

Whats the problem.

If you remove all the emissions stuff, be sure to retune the engine, preferably on a dyno, as carb calibration & the distributor advance curve are likely to be way off.

Well I haven't removed a thing - I'm just trying to get it to work with what I've got. I may end up purchasing all of those parts that were removed if that's wha it'll take to get it to work at all. I'm not trying to build a hot rod here - just want a reliable daily driver. Maybe it's time to go shopping... Thanks for your inputs!
Michael

get ya skirt off! through in a SR no carby problems! oh and did i mention quik

With a new carb, there are three things you want to do:

1. Adjust float level. This has to be done first because it affects the next steps

2. Warm up engine even if you have to keep foot on for 5 minutes. Then adjust idle speed screw to about 750 rpm

Some of newer carbs have a vacuum- or electrical-energized idle stop. This acts directly on the throttle linkage.

3. Finally, adjust idle-mixture. Then re-adjust idle speed. Then final adjust idle mixture

Don't worry too much about the emissions stuff, it shouldn't affect idle (other than the anti-diesel and idle stop, and keep the EGR blocked off (as in your picture) to test, and all the vacuum ports blocked).

You did verify the anti-disel valve 'clicks' right? Just having the wire hooked up is no guarantee ...

Hey dd,
I just went out and checked and I couldn't here any clicking when the wire to the anti-diesel valve was connected or disconnected. I couldn't do it while the engine was running but the key was in the ignition and turned all the way clockwise. Should there be a constant voltage on the wire going to the valve? Or do I have to check for the clicking while the engine is running? I could put a brick on the accelerator.

By the way, I was able to get it to idle earlier but it's still very rough. If you drop off the gas real quick it dies, or sometimes just dies when stopped. I don't know the RPM because my tach doesn't work. I went aroudn the block, and stopped the engine when I got home to come in here to check this post. When I just went back out to check the clicking thing it wouldn't idle anymore. Just drops down and stops when the gas is let off.

BY the way, I think the float is OK. It's right about the center of the sight. ON your 3 step procedure above, I don't know how do you adjust the mixture? ALso what is a good starting point for the idle adjust screw? ALl the way in and then back out a couple of turns? I've messed with it so much I don't know where to start. And lastly, should the engine be able to idle without any pull on the throttle, or is it OK to adjust the throttle cable to give it some gas with your foot off the pedal? If I did that I could probably make it drivable at least (ie wouldn't die at every stop sign). But in general, shouldn't it idle without using the throttle at all? Thanks again for your help!
Michael