The anti-diesel valve controls the idle. When there is no electricity to it, it stop the flow of fuel through the idle circuit.

Yes, with key on, engine off, there must be electricity to the valve. So if it's not clicking that's most likely the cause of the idling problem.

Amazing what a sandblast on the carbie will do..........makes it look like new.

hey ddgonzal,
So it sounds like this valve is normally closed (when up-powered). From the diagram it looks like a simple piston that stops a gas line I suppose. If I'm not able to get power to it, would it be a problem if I just took the solenoid out, cut off the piston with a hack-saw and put it back in? Is post-engine-shut-off dieseling really a problem?

That would be a last resort. I'm trying to figure out from the wiring diagram what voltage the solenoid needs (ie regulated or unregulated battery voltage). Here's a pic of the diagram below (or go here for a higher res version 248kb large diagram I've looked over it quite a bit and the only solenoids I see are on this page and are called the "Throttle Opener Solenoid", "Fuel Cut Solenoid" and the "Vacuum Cut Solenoid". I'm guessing it's one of the first two. Any idea which it would be? The wires colors I guess are L and YR - not sure what this means but the wire on my car was either red or green, I can't remember. Thanks,
Michael

You haven't read the Carb article in our tech section? It discusses the anti-diesel valve.

Quote:Yes, my A12 has the problem as we speak. It's highly annoying. Unfortunately my carb does not have the anti-diesel solenoid valve. Some engines don't have the problem.

You can remove the piston without cutting anything. It won't hurt anything, except remove the anti-diesel function. Your engine may not need it. Depends on if it runs off or not.

L means blue
YR Means yellow with a red trace (line)

Thanks - I found the key for the diagram which explains the colors (and a few more useful things!)

Well DD I hadn't seen the tech article on carbs - I saw the one describing the different carbs but not the tune-up one. Very helpful!

Well I took a jumper wire home with me last night and did verify that in fact the anti-dieseling solenoid was not getting power. I jumpered it straight to the battery and got the "click" I was looking for. So I cranked her up and HELL YEAH she purred like a kitten! Very exciting to finally her it idling smoothly and actually having the idle adjustment screws work on the carb. So I got out the wiring diagram again and traced it back to the fuse box. And of course I found a blown fuse (which by the way also controls the auto-choke which was not working on the old carb which I assumed was just dead). Tonight I'll pick up some fuses and see if I can get it to work but I have a feeling I'm going to have to seach out the source of the problem ie why the fuse is blown. The wiring has been hacked up a bit in this car - not horrible but bad enough to be a pain.

Who knows, maybe I didn' tneed the new carb anyway but I've already got it so I might as well make the best of it. I belive I've already voided the warranty by a little "mod" I had to make to get it to work on my car (they didn't send the exact right one...) Oh well, I've got another one to rebuild some day if I decide to screw with it.

Well thanks DD for the tip (I should have listened to you earlier but I didn't understand) and your help also dingdang. I'll post an update if/when I find the source of the electrical problems.
Michael

Well I replaced the fuse last night and it did the trick. The anti-diesel solenoid and the auto-choke both now work properly - and the fuse didn't blow. The car runs like a dream as well. I probably need to tune it up following the advice in the manuals and tech article, but it's a 5x improvement over how it ran before. Thanks for all your help!!
michael