Well I haven't removed a thing - I'm just trying to get it to work with what I've got. I may end up purchasing all of those parts that were removed if that's wha it'll take to get it to work at all. I'm not trying to build a hot rod here - just want a reliable daily driver. Maybe it's time to go shopping... Thanks for your inputs!
Michael

Quote:
Absolutely right!

If one is well versed in the operation of each of the emission control devices, knew how it worked, what it did, or didn't do, then one would be in a position to make an informed decision to remove, adjust. disable, or otherwise change things around.

If you dont know what it does, or how it works, then leave the thing alone & hook it up just like the book says.

The thing that gets me, is that most emissions stuff is removed to provide more top end power. It is also mostly vacuum powered, but when you give it full throttle [which is what you do to get max power] there is no vacuum to speak of anyway, so all the vacuum powered emissions stuff shuts down.

Whats the problem.

If you remove all the emissions stuff, be sure to retune the engine, preferably on a dyno, as carb calibration & the distributor advance curve are likely to be way off.

Quote:

If the carb didn't expect all that stuff it would run better. Like my webber. I think many people try to make the factory carb perform better, but it really works best as it was designed to work.

thanks dd and sleeper,
The anti-diesel solenoid is hooked up. Also I've got a FSM, haynes and clymer but haven't been able to figure out much from them. I thought that these carbs would ususally run better without out all of the emissions stuff, so I'm hoping to get it to work like that. But maybe I'm wrong and I do have tohook all of that crap back up. I need an expert to come look at it wiht me i think, but I know no one. I can't even drive it to a shop right now. doh!
Michael

Won't idle? Make sure you have the anti-diesel solenoid hooked up. It should 'click' if you connect/disconnect the wire (with ignition on).

3/4 up the site glass is too high ... need to pop the top off and adjust the float level.

see if you can get a FSM or atleast a haynes that shows how all the vacuum lines hook up. I had to re-do all of mine because someone unhooked stuff and it took a while to get it running right again.

what did you do with all of the placews on the carb that need hoses hooked up to them?

on my 81 the factory carb was very fussy about having all the hoses hooked up right.

Well I put the new carb on. It only took a few seconds for the carb to fill up with fuel (about 3/4 of the level sight glass). So it was idling real rough for a few minutes, so I started spraying it with carb cleaner to see if there were any leaks. For some reason it started idling a little more smoothly when it was very wet with cleaner (though I can't find a leak anywhere). I stopped it and restarted it and since then it won't idle at all. It'll rev when I step on the gas but the idle quickly falls and dies when I let off the gas. I've tried all positions of the idle adjust screw and it has no effect. Any other ideas how to fix this? The old carb idled very high, so maybe the previous did something to make it run with high idle? The PO also plugged almost every vac input and output near the carb, so nothing matches the manual - so I've got no idea where to start. Anyone know the minimum requirement to get it to run? I don't know which parts that are blocked off should or shouldn't be. Thanks for any more help

michael

here's a picture from the front anyway - let me know if any other angles would help because I've got lots of pics. Sorry it's a little big (150kb)
http://www.datsunprojects.org/mps210/carb1.jpg

Datsun 1200s already have a small fuel tank in the engine compartment for faster start up (the carburetor float bowl). If yours is leaking out overnight, you might put new gaskets on the jet plugs.

I would also recomend at least a little fuel {20-30ml} to be put into the top of the Carbi {toward the left side} manually, whilst cranking for faster starting up .

As for purging,what-ever{my first time heard of it as well}.

Purging? That's a new one on me. Anyways, yes, the line at the fuel filter will automatically start draining the thank. After a few seconds of that, you might be best to drain the entire fuel tank (there is a handy drain plug on 1200 tanks) and put clean gasoline back in. If you drain into a clean bucket, any dirt or water will settle to the bottom of the bucket (very visible). Then just pour the top part back into the tank.

Yes, you'll just need to crank the engine a bit before it will fill the carb bowl and fire. You might consider disconnecting the coil and cranking until you see some fuel in the carb sight-glass.