The symptoms are that the steering wheel has movement up and down (axially). It can only move as far down as the surclip will allow, unless that is broken too, from too much rough stuff.

The "interference fit" of the 2 parts of the shaft, make it difficult to "completely pull off" the steering wheel and top part of the shaft. It would never completely come off as the shaft design would stop it coming up past the bearing.

A worn shaft bearing should only result in radial movement of the shaft. And I fail to see how this could wear out in any of our lifetime's, unless it has been left ungreased.

The broken pins mean that the steering wheel can pull out from it's location, making the indicator stalk will occasionally fail to correct after a turn. It will make horrible clicking noises, and possible break your indicator switch mechanism.

Thanks. I've seen plenty with slop up and down and radially.

Quote:my old one used to 'squeak', I presume because it was never greased and now my current 1200 squeaks a bit when the wheel is turned a little bit. I test-drove a 1200 once from a used-car lot, and the bearing was totally shot it had axial play and made noise ...

How do you grease them? I'll look it up in my repair manual.

I have just fitted a wood wheel to my Holden ute, I used to tap the column with a hammer when I was young and stupid.
I have found that partially undoing the nut and holding the wheel at the 9 and 3 position and pulling in turn towards me does the job.
I would say the squeaking sound is the horn contact running dry a small smear of vasaline will fix it.
Ade

If pulling, WD40, or hopping on one leg doesn't get the wheel off, a simple puller like this will.