I just fitted a worked A14 to my formerly "grandad spec" 310. And to be perfectly honest it feels slow. It sits there rumpity rumpy away at Idle, but after having driven the supercharged A14 fir two weeks it feels like an old womens car.
I am pretty much fed up with lumpy cams.
An Lseries would give smooth power without needing a cam that makes your fillings drop out of your head. But on the other hand, the "A" will be a cheaper way to go fast, If you don't mind a trade off for low end driving.
Sure, you may choose to go S/C option, but without some engineering skill, or a good matre with some it will get expensive quite fast.

Going off topic a wee bit, will a 180B Xmember bolt into a B310?

I don't think that an L series conversion costs that much at all. It's cost me around $1000, and a couple weeks work. That includes a fair amount of extras, so I think that it could be done for around half that amount. (This is parts only)

Another question for the discussion, what mods are available for each engine, in what price range, for what sort of a power upgrade???

time for my $0.02.

In my opinion the "L" series comes out with the gold, as cheap as they are, ( 200 bux with gearbox) Are also quite easy to install.
there nothing compared to the degree of Difficulty which is invovled with the "CA" conversion. The "L" series gear box will fit the standard tunnel with some "massaging" but is easily fitted with an upgraded tunnel.
then theres the cross member, The L18 sump is at the wrong end, so the sump has to be pulled of a L20b with the right configuration sump and bolt back onto the L18, then u need to remanufacture the mounts for the L18 block.

The L18 with a single side draught webber, decent cam, port n polish, and a head shave to up compression willl be a quik ol' datsun 1200. . And it would be a cheap option to boot! In NSW the limits for a datsun 1200 are:
2 Litre Natrually Aspirated.
1.8 Force fed.
So as you can see getting one registered will be quite simple indeed because the L18 ( 1.8 litre) fits in the requirements.

The A series ARE great Bang for Buck.
they go in easy are cheap and are reliable.
They have got themselves a reputation that is gold. there a great little motor.
but it comes down to, theres not replacement for displacement, and the L18 wins every time.


Go the L series they go heeps harder than an A

get back to the subject that ddgonzal and i were talking about...

Its about time someone got back to the orginal topic and answered the questions of the topic starter rather than ramble on about which is better.
CA = expensive
L series = medium
A series = cheap

L series still a lot less expensive than a CA but unless u can modify basically everything yourself will still be quiet expensive. + to get the L series street legal will cost even more. Like dodgeman and nzdatman said, If your on a budget which most of us are(no money) than you cant beat the a series.

Oh yeah if u want a cheap engine upgrade by something like a torana or kingswood V8. you can fit any smalblock without modification. ie 307 to 400+

very true, dodgeman.

I think all the conversions mentioned are good ones, and budget and circumstances usually dictate which option is best for someone.

Getting back to the guy who posted the original question, bearing in mind he said he didn't want to be stuffed around compliancing/registering/engineering an engine swap, and that he would spend around $2000, it's a no-brainer. You can't really go past an A-series can you?

This has become a really good discussion thread as all of us are coming up with our favorite theories & some really usefull info & arguments are being presented.

I think that we would all agree that engine choice must be directly linked to budget & it's the size of the budget that drives the degree of choice available.
For those of us on more modest budgets, i see the choice focusing on the "A" series versus "L" series debate, & this is to some degree dependant on ones workshop & it's capabilities.

The "A" series has many adherants, oncluding me, & is the easiest to fit, since the B10 series of chassis came with one anyway. They are plentifull, & cheap, & performance parts are also reasonably plentifull. By using the A14/15 engine with even the modest OEM type Webber carb & a set of pipes, performance can be noticeably improved at a very modest cost. These engines can be built to provide very substantial power improvements, but the cost involved allows us to look at other ways of uprating vehicle performance with a lower stressed engine.

L18_B110 offers a very convincing argument for the "L" series conversion, yet it is not one of the more popular ones. Perhaps we should re-read his comments in this, & other threads, more carefully as it looks to have a lot to offer. He is speaking from personal experience & does not seem to be even thinking of switching away from this combination. Perhaps he clearly remembers to old addage,"When you're on a good thing, stick to it."

The CA18DE conversions are quite a bit more involved, & expensive, yet offer a lot of performance once it is properly done. They are really impressive when showing off the engine bay, but have the potential to get the less experienced driver into a great deal of drama if not carefull.
This is probably the best way to bring a 30 year old chassis into the new century, but it won't be quick, easy, or cheap.

So Stevo & Feral seem to have it covered fairly well. An "A" series for a mild streeter, the CA for something quite serious, but i would suggest that for those on a modest, to medium budget, the L18, & possibly the L20b, has a lot to offer, including a readily available engine at a very modest cost. Proven reliability, with the potential to develop good strong street power, & the bonus of a relatively simple conversion. This engine sort of fits in the middle for those who want strong street performance, & don't have the budget for top end race development. Even Feral runs a "L16" in his streeter Sunny coupe. At least, that's what i says on the cam cover

What do you think, [yes,..you] does this simplify the overall situation, or complicate it?

Quote:

I'm not too sure about that... an L18 with a single weber, how many hp would that be, 140 max? People have got up to 200hp from the mighty A-series. And they're lighter to boot.
Don't get me wrong, I love L-series, I have two of them, and I love Harry's coupe, but I think a modified A-series would be better bang for buck up to about 160hp. That's just my 2c...

Hey L18_B110
I agree with you. The L Series motors are THE BOMB.

As for DD stating that the L series motor are noiser and hard to work on compared to the A series, I DISAGREE.
Its just as easy to work on as an A12, the only thing is its size mainly.
L series being noisy, not if well tuned.
Unlike an A series, crying its guts out at 4-5000+ plus revs on open road. The L series are quite.

Why hot up an A series motor, this is so much time and money spent, and not forgetting, that these motors lifespan is shortened by these mods, just to be a fast as an L motor or slower.
Just go L series motor, even without any hotting ups, youll be happy with performance, and you'll also get reliabilty on these motors and gearboxes.{thats if you want to do all the body and mounting mods}

how much will 600lbs have an effect??just a guess..maybe i can hit the 14.00 sec????

or otherwise how can i lighten up my 620????

but really how much effect will 600lbs make?????