I was thinking of a rotary for my '73 Coupe, but since I have all the bits to build a nice L20B I thought I might try that instead...

I was looking at the article in the tech section and had a question for anyone who might know...

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What exactly is the "hoop"? I have the Stanza bits in my stash but does the Xmember bolt straight in or does it need to be narrowed?

Any help from someone who's done and L swap is appreciated. Also, any major hood clearance issues with the extra height of the L20B over the L16/L18? If I have to cut and paste on the Xmember I could just as easily mod it to get the engine down a bit lower...

that part about the "hoop" was actually a quote from one of my posts here. Basically I moved the centre section of the x-member between the engine mount brackets rearwards about 20mm and down about 10mm (to the same height as the drag link) to allow me to fit the engine as low and as rearwards as possible. I mounted the engine so that the drag link just missed it at full lock (it rises slightly as steering lock is applied).

Even though I did the conversion with an L16 block, I never had any trouble fitting the 20mm taller L20B in there. Others have done the L20B conversion without cutting and shutting or lowering x-members.

I didn't have any problems getting it engineered for road use over here, but I believe you guys don't even have to do that! It wasn't technically legal for Improved Production racing here, but I built the car before I ever got involved in racing, or even considered it.

This is all based on modifying the 1200 x-member, the Stanza x-member would require much more work to fit into the 1200.

Thanks for the clarification.

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Yeah, we are very fortunate there.

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Too wide?

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I picked up a complete front suspension (with Xmember) from a B310 today, so I am first going to see if the B310 Xmember can be made to fit. If so, I'll probably make my own engine mounts to get the L20b in there. I am hoping I can get it to fit without extensive re-working of the crossmember center section, but we'll see...

Anyone else with L20b swap experience care to chime in?

you might also want to check the distance between the holes for the control arms. keeping these within the same ballpark as the 1200 crossmember is important for steering geometry. As the 310 is a much wider bodied car, I suspect there will be a significant difference to the 1200 x-member.

I might be missing something really obvious (it wouldn't be the first time!), but adapting a x-member from another non L series powered car just seems like making extra work for no benefit. I think its easiest to simply make mounts for the 1200 x-member, and slight mods to the sump to clear x-member

wouldnt it be very simalair to the z series swap?

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Yeah, basically, other than the height difference. The Z20E/Z22E is about 1" shorter than an L20B.

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The only real reason is for L-series engine mounts. But the if the B310 Xmember needs to be narrowed to fit, it would be simpler just to cut off the Stanza "pedestals" and weld them onto the 1200 Xmember. Especially since the B310 control arms will bolt right up to the 1200 Xmember.

well i have a l16 in my b310
i only modified my 1200 cross member
and every thing else worked good

the only problem i have is axle tramping
so some input on that would be helpful