Well i got the Sunny back from the tuners on friday afternoon, and lets just say im less than impressed...

Actually im quite pissed off, not with the tuners but with the machine shop who did the work to my engine. The work they did is good and for a great price its just they gave me ####ty advice on what camshaft to get and now im paying for it in the money ive spent.
The grind they did on my cam is jus TOO lumpy, it should be used in a race engine revved to past 4 grand all day, its impossible to tune unless i were to add to the engine, i.e twin 40's or the alike - the engines pretty much just starved of fuel between idle and 2200 RPM...My lil 32/36 just cant handle it really, the jets im using are quite huge and need to be to keep up with the engines requirments.
The only good thing to come out of the cam is that it sounds so lumpy and cool at idle whomp whomp whomp and maybe ill use it later in a race engine or something, il just hold on to it......The cams pretty much a 30/70 (not too sure) and the specs from the shop (Waggott cams) tell this.
So whats on the cards now? To get a new timing chain and sprockets due to not replacing them at rebuild (god im a dickhead) and there being #### loads of slack in it.
The guy who tuneed it was a complete legend and he said that he see's this all too often, a young guy like me wanting to take on something like this to gain some experience & what not, dives head first into the deep end and will ALWAYS get some sort of dodgy advice along the way. He put it into perspective for me:

Me the buyer goes off to a shop and asks them what would be good for my application - they tell me and i trust their advice, deal done we shake hands. Then me the builder/assembler puts it all together with no fuss thinking along the way 'jeese i cant wait to get this thing going, its gona pull well!' but when the time comes round to taking it into the tuners they are the ones with the hard time getting it working right as the shop and them have no comunication whatsoever thus making life crap for them trying to make the customer happy but cant really in the end.

This is so true tho, and he said that he himself went thru the same trouble when he was my age as have many older blokes, its just as he said ' A lucky dip camshaft! Some come out good but 90% of the time the buyer gets poor advice for the certain application. '
The engines running at full retard with a full 20 degrees BTDC This is HUGGEEE i know but its what he had to get it to get running or idleing and not backfiring or running on, the things idleing at 1150 RPM for christ sake!! And if i lower the idle it will just run on and splutter everywhere, its disgusting...

Sooooo now i needd to ask, have i done a complete full circle and ended back up where i was 6 months ago with the thought in my head 'should i sell this car?' and the answer NO
Ive spent toooo much time and money on this car to let it go away with me emptyhanded!
But when exams are over (3 weeks) ill most probably fit a different cam and the timing chain and sprockets, what sort should i be sourcing you reckon??

But at least the car starts, gets me from A - B and is reliable...well kinda.

Dave

Well datrat you should get yourself a set of twin 40's then. My engine has a race grind but idles quite happily on 600rpm with good power right through the rev range. It will be the best thing you ever did....oh and the induction noise...yes!!

I agree, save you penny's for dual webers. There's some guy on eBay America selling like new dcoe's from Italy.

Something else is wrong. A 30/70 is not a big cam at all. Its more of a fast street cam than a race cam and the 32/36 weber should keep up with it no worries at all. You woiuld only notice an improvement with twins at high rpm. It should still run fine down low. Its not the cam it sounds like a carb problem. Has it been rebuilt?

Hmm, investing in a set of twins would be awsome i know! BUT, this car is for getting me from A - B and other things - thus the big factor, petrol... Everyone tells me that a set of twins suck the petrol harder than an underage hooker!!

And about the cam Freak, im not sure if its a 30/70 thats just what the guy at the tuners said it MITE be as there was no proper diagrams with the cam specs, maybe this should shed some light on the cam problems:
Lift:
In - 267"
Ex - 260"
Duration:
In - 316 degrees
Ex - 309 degrees
Now if anyone can tell me off the top of their head what cam that is it would save me a lot of time and stress!!
And yes the carb has been rebuilt by me! I put a kit thru it before i put it on and the tuner dude fitted new jets, springs and diaphragms.

Im guessin a set of webers or doloretos and manifold will be about $500 and up??
We shall see how it all pans out i spose, any more thoughts on the matter? The advice and comments will only do me good in deciding what to do now!

Dave

Well it's a bit late now, but the best people to talk to about cams are the camshaft suppliers /grinders. These people have a vested interest in selling you the best grind for your particular application. They know that no matter how it turns out, good or bad, you will tell everyone about it, & they would much prefer it if you had good things to say.

Both Wade cams in Melbourne & Tighe cams in Queensland have websites that list cam profiles & their recomended applications. Have a quick squizz & check them out.
I think that in the end, you will have to go with a known quantity,... & that means geting another camshaft.

Do it right, do it once.

Once you've figured out what cam is in the motor what's to stop you from getting a set of twin su's out of the local paper or Ebay? I'm not that flash with the carb knowledge but a set of twin su's would provide more fuel than a single 32/36 wouldn't they? I've seen them go for under a $100. If you rebuilt the Weber yourself I wouldn't see it being a issue for you to overhaul the su's.
Matty

just a car for A-B....

and sideways through C

Cant get sideways with my kingsprings and 15's now haha it handles like its on rails! Pretty good but it needs a alignment, no hassel there a quick 40 bux and its done...

Thanks for the info Dodgeman, pity i didnt investigate before hand! But really, i trusted their advice and they said that this grind would be quitre benefical for my engine thus i let them do it...I should have asked them for specs first and then asked you guys first!!!

Alrite so lets say i do invest in a set of twins....Webers, twin 40s prob - im going to need new fuel pump, lines, fuel regulator,filters, manifold & the carbys....all up about $700 - 800??
And lets say i went the other way and got a set of twin SU's, prob 36s, do they need another fuel pump or can they run on the stock one? Manifold, carbies, lines, regulator?? All up about $500 ish? But SU's are a barstad to tune and choose which one, all the different angled ones and stuff tho......
Or i get a standard cam and chukc that in....about $40!!

Wat now?
Dave

Cam really doesnt sound like the problem. A change in camshaft will not force the engine to starve at low rpm. Sure if its a massive cam and you go to rev it to like 7500rpm the weber might not be enough but everything else should be fine. The bigger the cam the more sluggish down low it will be but it will still be quite drivable. Before going through the hassle of taking out the engine to change what doesnt even sound like the problem to me check everything else.