Those cam figures are a little wierd. Even if they were reversed. . .

One thing to check is the the cam is properly degree'd in. not all cams are to be installed "straight up". There are a few different A series sprockets giving different cam advance, but this shouldn't cause "that" much of a drama.

Ok ive been doing some investigation and talked to a guuy i know who just rebuilt his Escort with his 1.6L engine and he uses relativley the same cam as i (smaller duration but maybe a bit more lift) with a 32/36 and he says it runs beautifully.....what gives?! Also theres a number of people around here who run aftermarket biggish cams with 32/36's and they say they go awsome, you included yeah Freak??

On the invoice the guy gave me from the tuners (after i talked to him) it says
'unable to set ignition timing to specifications due to performance camshaft fitted & excessive wear in timing chain. Engine idle speed needs to be increased above specs due also to camshaft, this can cause engine to run on sometimes.'
Whats a good timing chain and sprocket kit for an A series engine?
I dont want to have to pull the engine again so could i mayybe do it from in the engine bay? Its the crank pulley bolt thats worrying me about this.....

Im gona give Errol a call aswell.

Now i need answers please!!! I just want my engine running well.......

Dave

Ok just got off the phone to Errol, very helpful guy!! And he also agrees that the duration is wayy to big for just a single downdraught carby.. there needs to be more gas/air flowing into the engine to compensate for the valves being open for that period of time
But to make things sure he said to check cam timing, valve clearance and ignition timing first before branching out to anyting else, this i will do!

I will drive with this setup most likley for 3 weeks (after exams) but if any body is selling a set of dollortos or webers and manifolds please let me know....cheers
Dave

Yeah weber worked fine for me. Still keep it in the shed as backup. Yes you would be right in saying that the weber is too small for the cam. The thing is though it wont be at low rpm. I reckon a weber 32/36 is good for 6500rpm. Your engine will not use really anymore air/fuel at low rpm than what a engine with a stock cam would. The point which I have already made obvious is no matter what cam size the weber should still provide ample fuel/air under normal driving conditions.

this sounds like it might just be the idle circuit
not working.you say it stumbles & such until 2200 when it comes clean & away it goes.what idle jet/s does it have in it?what about the idle mixture screw,how many turns in or out is it?
the 32/36 i've got on my a15 has a 60 idle jet
in it,due to various things happening to it,& it looks like it needs a 65.stock off a 2l ford is usually 55 on the primary side & 50 on the secondary side.when you quickly give the throttle a slight touch,does the engine sound like its drowning?these things can all affect how the engine pulls off idle,& can cause the car to be awful to drive.on the other hand,if they are right,the car could be a joy to drive.hope this helps in some way.

Dave three things;

1. Go back through the carb and check the idle circuit as said it sounds like the culprit.

2. The worn cam chain MUST be replaced , the guy at the tuners is correct about having trouble timing it. A series engines will run on seriously worn parts. God knows what the cam timing really is . The distributor runs off the cam so your ignition timing is probably variable as well.

3. buy the extracters/headers before the side drafts.....big intake (webers) tiny exhaust (no headers) is not optimal. Intake and exhaust should always be a set of parts.

Keep us updated , Tom

Dave actually what I said was that with the large cam overlap, the single throat suffers badly from reversion of the inlet gas flow.

Multiple throat carbs share the back flow volume and do not suffer as badly from this problem

Maybe when you do the timing chain you could go back to a milder cam if you want to use the 32/36 for better economy.

Is there anyone on site that has upgraded a mild cam with around 270 - 280 degrees advertised duration or 220 degrees at 0.050" lift that could sell it to Dave?

I am sure this would solve a lot of his problems.

when you do the chain I would check and re-check the cam timing if it's not a tooth out I'll stand r**ted
on the carbie side of things have you considered a single 45 dcoe these are good and no syncronization problems less jetting probs
and run just as good as twin 40

hey dave,

i have a camshaft that i pulled out of a hot A 15. it has "298" stamped in the front of it and i believe the datsun performance centre built the motor. does anyone know if this will help? not sure of brand or specs of any description.