There is definately something wrong here.
The piece where the red rubber is must sit straight.

Something I noticed.
The U-joint that is used to bolt the sway bar onto the body, I notice that it has a bolt coming from above and then a nut bolted onto that. As far as I know this must be a Bolt that is screwed into the body from the bottom using a socket.
Did you move the factory bolting location of the U joints?
Can this maybe cause this spacing problem?
Just trying to find out what can cause this.

Sorry for the double post.
I accidently clicked twice on submit buttom.

I didn't move the swaybar so it's not in the wrong place.

it's because the 180B Xmember sits further forward, all i wanted to know is whether it's fine like that or do i need a custom swaybar?

You know, if you have the arms on that bar shortend, it would make for a stiffer swaybar. It might be cheaper than having a custom bar made.

Can i shorten it myself? like a bit of cutting and drilling? or does it need to be heat treated or something?

Me thinks you might have bigger problems.
If the swaybar ocation is standard, the pic would indicate that the new xmember has mounted the lower arms further forward on the car. (Hence the swaybar mounting problem) But, with the strut tops in their standard location, you have effectively increased the castor. This can be desireable, to a certain extent. But do you know how much it has increased by? Mad as castor increases oversteer, and with the heavyer motor up front, you may find that it swaps ends on you at the drop of a hat. (Then again it might not)
I'm just ading my two cents.
This is why I modified the standard Xmember when I put the L20B in my sunny. Altering the location of the arms can adversley effect suspention geometry.

let the sway bar sit on top of the pins, and see if it lines up ok, mark it all up, and chop it, then get the oxy out and just bash the ends kinda flat, then just drill em. i dont think it wil need heat treating coz it should be spring steel.
can u move ur sway bar brackets forward at all? what about making new pins up? that will come out like and up side down L but with a cross bracket for strength? in the shape of a triangle?
or of course, getting a custom sway bar,thats what i'd be doing if those ideas dont work.then u know its fine. and u will have no issues.

Quote:

did you use the 180B castor rods?

looks like ur in the perfect position to use the same setup as the 1200 competition swaybar rosejoint link...

just cut the flat bits on the end off the swaybar.
put a rosejoint on the end of the swaybar link bolt.
drill the holes in the swaybar to suit...

just download the competition suspension file and u will see what i mean..