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#31
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
1200coupe
Posted on: 2005/11/24 4:28
Quote:
caster: Not enough, even with the shorter 120y radius rods 0.7 deg. the mechanic suggested another 5mm of thread on the radius rods would be required for decent caster. I suggest you try LJ Torana castor rods as they are thicker and stronger and have heaps of adjustment - only mod necessary is to drill out the two mounting holes in the rods so they suit the mounting bolts on the bottoms of the stanza struts and open up the holes at the front mounts. Gives you over 5 degrees castor if you wish. See someones still reading your posts   
#32
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
Grunterhunter
Posted on: 2005/11/24 4:54
Thanks 1200 coupe,
That's useful to know.... now all I have to do is find a wrecker that still has an LJ torrie sitting on the bottom of the pile in the back corner! EDIT: Any Idea what size the threaded end of the LJ rod is? I suggested to the suspension guy that I should get 15mm extra thread put on the 120y rod to allow for whatever adjustment I want, but he reckoned that it would be way too weak. Based on that, you would want the LJ threaded section to be the same diameter as the datto non threaded section...... pretty damn fat
#33
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
phunkdoktaspok
Posted on: 2005/11/24 7:40
Quote:
NSW light vehicle guidelines ( Which I am sure is treated the same in this case ) Track width for a vehicle fitted with different suspension or brakes from another vehicle - is now the original track width of the donor vehicle minus the measurement of which they were brought closer together for mounting in he new vehicle. Basically you could have your stut towers 2 inches apart and alsong as your engineer was happy with the mounting it will pass. Just putting wider or narrower wheels to change the track width by more than the specified 25mm - whether engineered or not, is non registerable ( said to be! but being enforced is another thing )
#34
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
phunkdoktaspok
Posted on: 2005/11/24 7:47
Quote:
Maybe rethink that. The thickness of the threaded ends originally is strong enough, But 15mm more of exactly the same size threaded bar is weak? Its different if he thinks the original bar is weak.
#35
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
Grunterhunter
Posted on: 2005/11/24 10:27
Quote:
Perth (the happiest place on earth) is finally catching up and apparently the DPI are in the process of changing to the national code of practice, rather than their own rules which were (and still outwardly appear to be) "not more than 25mm. No...... No..... does not matter.....no. not more than 25mm!" I got a pdf of the national code and it is consistent with what you are saying Page 39/LS72: "Where non-original axle or suspension cross-member components are fitted, the offset of the wheel in relation to the axle or hub assembly used, must not be increased by more than 12.5mm each side of the vehicle based on the specifications of the axle components used. If an axle assembly is shortened then the track width limit is taken as the axle manufacturers original track dimension, less the amount the assembly has been narrowed, plus 25mm;
#36
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
Grunterhunter
Posted on: 2005/11/24 10:41
Quote:
I dont think there was a question over the strength of the R-rod (although I did snap one on my old 1000coupe without hitting anything) The issue is shoulder strength. In the standard setup there is threaded rod ~10(?)mm dia, and a square shoulder where it goes up to ~17(?)mm diameter. the large bush washer sits in there and it all bolts up with a crush tube to set the appropriate tension on the rubbers. If I put an extra 15mm of thread on and had an adjustable nut instead of the solid shoulder, the radius rod would more than likely break just behind the nut, because that is where the pressure is concentrated. I would prefer that setup if it could work, cos you could fiddle with it untill the castor was spot on But I dont reckon it would eb strong enough.
#37
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
1200coupe
Posted on: 2005/11/24 23:30
Quote:
Any Idea what size the threaded end of the LJ rod is? I suggested to the suspension guy that I should get 15mm extra thread put on the 120y rod to allow for whatever adjustment I want, but he reckoned that it would be way too weak. Based on that, you would want the LJ threaded section to be the same diameter as the datto non threaded section...... pretty damn fat I can almost guarantee that the LJ rods will be strong enough. I have them in my rally coupe and the front end cops an extreme amount of pounding and I have never had one fail. I cant remember the exact Dia sorry, but they are big. I suggest that your suspension guy was correct about extending the thread on your existing rods. The standard rods have the threads hot or cold rolled during manufacture (very strong). You have suggested extending this thread by either screw cutting in a lathe or using a die. This actually weakens the thread and therefore the rod and your suspension guys has probably seen enough modified ones break to be kind enough to inform you and save you any headaches in the future. *EDIT* The LJ ones have enough thread length to allow plently of castor adjustment without modifying any threads. Their final position is fixed by a large nut and washer on both sides of the front mounting point so there is no fixed shoulder to worry about. Super strong and adjustable - what more could you want
#38
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
Grunterhunter
Posted on: 2005/11/25 1:24
cheers 1200coupe. What did you do for bushes? I'm thinking drill out the centre of the nolothane ones I just bought for it.... or is there a better way. I cant imagine nolothane being all that easy to drill.
#39
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
1200coupe
Posted on: 2005/11/25 1:46
Nolethane is a bit of a pain in the ass to work with because you have to try and keep the temp low otherwise you end up with a molten mess but it is possible with care and very sharp tools with steep cutting angles are best. You can try it and see otherwise just grab some other bushes off the shelf that will fit without much mods. You might have to increase the inside dia of the retaining washers as well but these might come of the wrecked LJ as well.
I prefer to use rubber ones because with rally the shock loads are transfered to the front mounts where they are welded to the rails and they can crack at the welds if everything is TOO stiff. It depends on your application I guess. Happy castoring.............
#40
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
nzdatman
Posted on: 2005/11/25 2:27
Quote:
So is the bolt spacing and angle of the holden radius rods the same as the datsun? I'm going to start looking for some if this is the case! Cheers for that tip 1200 coupe.
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