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nate
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
#45
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in my my 120y i have stanza struts with the bigger brakes, used stanza lower control arms and radius rods. king super low haredened springs( for 1200) not stanza. i have 15inch trx wheels with 205 45 tyres. these rub like hell at the front( on the gaurd even after it was rolled. i want to modify some s13 camber tops so it pulls the top of the tyre in. does that make sense and will it work.

once my 15 inch tyres are ####ed i wanna go back to 13 or 14 wheels.

would a fatter sway bar help too, like less body roll less gaurd getting near tyres on corners.

Posted on: 2005/11/26 8:57
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Cable_Tie
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
#44
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To gain a bit of negative camber + castor, I am a big fan of redrilling the crossmember where the lower control arms bolt thru.

I'm not sure of the legalities, with a big washer, who is to know?

Ideally you want to be pretty close to the width of your draglink so that bump steer is not induced.

As the car is lowered, I would also move the holes up to help retain the original Control arm geometry.


Posted on: 2005/11/26 6:01
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nzdatman
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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Wow that's good to know thanks Paul. It's a pity I didn't know of this a few years ago! LJs are pretty thin on the ground now around here at least- I can't remember the last time I saw one...
But sounds like an excellent conversion, I love those kinds of mods, easy, cheap and effective.

Posted on: 2005/11/26 4:31
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1970 1200 coupe A15
1972 1600 original except for nana's sheepskins
1978 B310 SR16VE
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Grunterhunter
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Camber/castor specs from other upgrades.
#42
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Does anyone have camber castor specs from other conversions?

i.e.

R31?

180/200B?

etc...

Would be good for a comparison to help people get the best conversion straight up. The stanza conversion needs to be dropped another inch to get a degree or two of negative camber, but then you would have to shorten the strut to retain a decent amount of bump clearance.

Posted on: 2005/11/25 11:16
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1200coupe
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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Quote:
So is the bolt spacing and angle of the holden radius rods the same as the datsun?


Yep the LJ ones are very close, all that is usually necessary is to open up the two mounting holes at the back end of the rod and maybe grind a little off the end. Then drill or file out the hole dia at the front mount and its all good. The angle is also good. Remember its the LJ ones you want as every other model I looked at doesnt mount up properly.
Happy hunting.

Paul.

Posted on: 2005/11/25 3:02
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nzdatman
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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Quote:

I suggest you try LJ Torana castor rods as they are thicker and stronger and have heaps of adjustment - only mod necessary is to drill out the two mounting holes in the rods so they suit the mounting bolts on the bottoms of the stanza struts and open up the holes at the front mounts. Gives you over 5 degrees castor if you wish.
See someones still reading your posts


So is the bolt spacing and angle of the holden radius rods the same as the datsun?
I'm going to start looking for some if this is the case! Cheers for that tip 1200 coupe.

Posted on: 2005/11/25 2:27
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1970 1200 coupe A15
1972 1600 original except for nana's sheepskins
1978 B310 SR16VE
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1200coupe
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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Nolethane is a bit of a pain in the ass to work with because you have to try and keep the temp low otherwise you end up with a molten mess but it is possible with care and very sharp tools with steep cutting angles are best. You can try it and see otherwise just grab some other bushes off the shelf that will fit without much mods. You might have to increase the inside dia of the retaining washers as well but these might come of the wrecked LJ as well.
I prefer to use rubber ones because with rally the shock loads are transfered to the front mounts where they are welded to the rails and they can crack at the welds if everything is TOO stiff. It depends on your application I guess.

Happy castoring.............

Posted on: 2005/11/25 1:46
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Grunterhunter
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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cheers 1200coupe. What did you do for bushes? I'm thinking drill out the centre of the nolothane ones I just bought for it.... or is there a better way. I cant imagine nolothane being all that easy to drill.

Posted on: 2005/11/25 1:24
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1200coupe
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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Quote:
Any Idea what size the threaded end of the LJ rod is? I suggested to the suspension guy that I should get 15mm extra thread put on the 120y rod to allow for whatever adjustment I want, but he reckoned that it would be way too weak. Based on that, you would want the LJ threaded section to be the same diameter as the datto non threaded section...... pretty damn fat


I can almost guarantee that the LJ rods will be strong enough. I have them in my rally coupe and the front end cops an extreme amount of pounding and I have never had one fail. I cant remember the exact Dia sorry, but they are big.
I suggest that your suspension guy was correct about extending the thread on your existing rods. The standard rods have the threads hot or cold rolled during manufacture (very strong). You have suggested extending this thread by either screw cutting in a lathe or using a die. This actually weakens the thread and therefore the rod and your suspension guys has probably seen enough modified ones break to be kind enough to inform you and save you any headaches in the future.

*EDIT*
The LJ ones have enough thread length to allow plently of castor adjustment without modifying any threads. Their final position is fixed by a large nut and washer on both sides of the front mounting point so there is no fixed shoulder to worry about. Super strong and adjustable - what more could you want

Posted on: 2005/11/24 23:30
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Grunterhunter
Re: Stanza strut/brake upgrade- Back on the road.
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Quote:

phunkdoktaspok wrote:

Maybe rethink that. The thickness of the threaded ends originally is strong enough, But 15mm more of exactly the same size threaded bar is weak?
Its different if he thinks the original bar is weak.


I dont think there was a question over the strength of the R-rod (although I did snap one on my old 1000coupe without hitting anything)

The issue is shoulder strength. In the standard setup there is threaded rod ~10(?)mm dia, and a square shoulder where it goes up to ~17(?)mm diameter. the large bush washer sits in there and it all bolts up with a crush tube to set the appropriate tension on the rubbers.

If I put an extra 15mm of thread on and had an adjustable nut instead of the solid shoulder, the radius rod would more than likely break just behind the nut, because that is where the pressure is concentrated.

I would prefer that setup if it could work, cos you could fiddle with it untill the castor was spot on But I dont reckon it would eb strong enough.

Posted on: 2005/11/24 10:41
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