Sick!! I was hoping I wouldnt have to stuff around with changing the brake lines and all that gear. I was hoping for 13x6 or 14x6 jellybeans,minilites, dragways or somthing else from the era. I'll have to see if my girlfriend's micra mags will fit on when I take it for a test run should be good for a laugh if nothing else.

From what I can get out of the previous posts, you just have to take the little plastic valve out of the front circuit of the master cyl. when you change over to disks on the front....... is that right?

Thanks for the help.

the pedal is only a little heavier than with the drums but was already running a tandem cylinder. not as light as i'd expect it to be with a booster but the pedal feel's pretty good had no trouble with the rear drums and have had a very reputable brake shop look over the whole set up, the're opinion is the balance should stay right with this upgrade.

if you're running 12's now you'll need to get some 13's as the 12's don't fit over the caliper i run 13x5.5" and haven't got a problem and i know a ute with 15x6" that needed the lip rolled and the guard pumped marginally. offsets the big player in it, but you should be right with most 13x5.5" s that don't have a huge offset

Thanks boofhead.
I'm still running stock 12in rims, so I'll have to nick some 13's from somewhere to get to the mag shop

Do you get a decent pedal without a master cyl or is it rock hard & lifeless?

How about the rear drums, did you have any trouble with them locking?

howdy

35mm is about right, i did mine and still run the same wheels and tyres i had on the drum brake struts. check the gap on your existing setup and you might find the guards will only need a lip roll and at the worst a slight pump out.

you can succesfully run these brakes with a tandem 1200 master cylinder. boosters and bigger masters are all personal choice.

if it's in a daily driver best option ... keep it simple

It must have been covered, but the search tool just aint working for me.

Had a look in the wreckers on the weekend- from a rough calculation: the longer lower control arm combined with the wider hub puts the face of the hub about 35mm further out on both sides..... does this sound right? it seems like a lot to try and make up in wheel offset and guard flaring

The other thing I havn't been able to work out is the master cylinder setup people are using-
non-boosted 1200?
boosted 12y?
boosted stanza?
somthing else altogether?

There are remote vacuum boosters mentioned, but that sounds like a lot of effort...... do you need a booster for this setup?

I'm thinking this might be a useful topic to get nailed down and into the tech section, since its such a popular upgrade