Hey guys and gals,

as you all know I have sold off all my A series racing bits and I have decided to go down the SR20 route to race in Improved Production Under 2 Litre in NSW next year.
Now my dilemma is with all the searching on the web and on this site I cannot see a clear way of doing this.
Fitting the engine and box is the easy part but the thing I want to know is what SR20..there are so many variants.
Rule out turbos as that will put me into a higher and tougher class of racing.

There are s13, S14 and S15 variants all coming in SR20 DE , SR20 DE with variable timing on inlet cam and SR20 VE which variable timing on both cams.

Now the question is what engine / gearbox combination would be best for the 1200 to deliver max power for under $5k with 160-170rwhp and significant torque increase whilst remaining very reliable.
I need to know if possible the different scenarios like:-

A) use the SR20DE form a silvia S13 , use aftermarket quad throttle bodies, programmable ECU and port heads and use race cams (dont know what type). R32 skyline gearbox...

Any ideas guys??

If your $5000 is for the motor only then thats a very healthy budget. i am not too sure on which SR20de vould be the go, but if you are going to be moddifying it a lot anyway, probably start with an S13 variant as it should only cost you $500 - $1000 depending on what you want with it. DO NOT waste money on an R32 box, the SR one will be strong enough. Unlike the turbo's, there aren't easy bolt on ways to make power (above 110rwkw), head work and cams are the way to go. Ask Ferral Errol, he knows about them.

i like the sound of your project!

its going to be very difficult to get that sort of power for that sort of money. I was looking at over $4K for a decent carbied CA18. And that's with no cost for the porting or valve tickling.
$920 + freight for cams (require converting to mech lifters = more money)
$200 for a chunk of alloy and manifold welding to mount the carbs. I was going to do the grinding, drilling and tapping myself.
$800-1500 for a decent set of pipes
$1000-1200 for forged pistons to get required CR
plus all machining, balancing and rings, brgs, gskts...
oh and a clutch, lightened (or steel) flywheel

If you really want that kind of power, I think realistically you'll need to double your budget. Especially if you are adding EFI hardware into the picture. And find people with experience getting that much power from a NA SR20, otherwise you'll be pouring $$$ away in development costs.

Quote:

My next question would be - how easy are either of these gearboxes to get ratios for and maybe dog rings to replace the stock syncro's, I asume converted wants a close ratio set up for the new build, so that should determine which set up gets preference.

Re the sr20-de,
My info tells me 1998cc EFi DOHC 16 valve 4cyl.
Power: 119kW@6400rpm
Torque: 188Nm@4800rpm
Sourced from RWD 93-94 Silvia Q's.

It would be very interesting to find out if the later model sr20-de had more power or torque in stock form than the earlier types.

Looks like lots of homework for you converted - good luck mate.

1200coupe..... Stew Wilkins is doing a dog box now which will bolt up to an SR20. Make sure your sitting down when you ask how much...I am not 100% sure...but they aren't cheap.

Converted.....good to hear you're going to challenge the 2L boys. I would be speaking to people like Tim Button (Group3j). He has built a budget spec SR to run in IPRA,

Good Luck mate .... talk soon.

Mark.

The R32 box was recommended as Stew Wilkins does a dof setup for them...are you all sitting down??
$9k

if i was in the same situation in you i would be considering the following options.
1: as you said above cams, quads compression etc. lots of money but lots of fun. But how reliable?
or
2.the sr20ve

I would investigate the sr20ve more. They work exactly the same way as honda's vtec, i.e. two cam lobes. They make about 190hp at the fly standard and have a rev limit of 8200. A custom bell housing would be required as well as a custom plenum and headers as they only came in fwd. but in the us guys are making close to 200 hp at the wheels (FWD) with sr16ve cams, headers and chipped ecu and the limit extended to 8500. If you kept it standard you would be pretty close to your hp goal and it would have factory reliability. Downsides are there aren't alot of hot up parts. (but do you need them?)
the solenoid for the cam lobe switching is on the gearbox side of the head (i.e the back)
the custom parts required may cost a fair bit
and of course the fact that bugger all people have converted sr20ve's to rwd so you would have to learn as you go.
Also i have absolutely no idea how much a sr20ve would cost in oz, that alone might blow the $5000

Basically i just want to see someone do a rwd sr20ve since i don't have the stamina to see it through

just my thoughts
Nick

The VE is an interesting animal as I could keep it factory and have great HP.
I can get a VE with ECU and loom for $2000.
Now I believe there are some who have put a VE head on a std block and had the oil tube draining back into the sump and have taken the dizzy out and replaced it with quad coils out of a Hyundai. Also I was wondering how you could change the solenoid for the cams...would anyone know how to change this over.
If I had the quads chipped ECU and VVT then I should be able to get 210 hp which isnt bad at all...

Why not use the quad throttle body setup from the Pulsar GTiR, some cam and head work, that should get you up there shouldn't it? run a wolf or similar. should be able to get it under the $5000... maybe or am i talking out of my A$$?

I don't know if you should be so quick to rule out turbos. Spending the sort of money we are talking here on a turbo CA or SR will probably get you as close to the front of the overs as 170rwbhp will to the unders in NSW. And with all that torque and low revving because of the restrictor, you won't need the expensive of a close ratio box. Bang for bucks, the turbo options wins hands down.