Yeah Im really stumped now. Last nite I was driving home and the engine just died. The electrical was still present.
I tried to start the car but no clicky no cranky. But I had the control to turn off the car, albeit just the electrical, but it wouldnt shut down before either.

I pushed the car home, luckily only about 3-4 blocks, and started looking for loose wiring. when I grabbed the starter wire something in the car on the other side of the firewall started clicking when I moved the loom. Every time I move it , click.

I managed to islolate where I suspected the fault to be, un taped the loom but it all looked fine. Put the wire back on the starter and she started up.

Today, driving home I thought "boy the electrical seems docile today". Compared to the other day when everything was popping, dash lites, heater fan etc. It seemed like it had gone back to how it was before the alt swap.

During the drive home I watched the dash lites get dimmer and dimmer, then the radio started cutting out again, the it was like every thing electrical was almost dead.

Stopped at a store for a minute and it wouldnt start up.

Shes not charging.

Like I said before I did disconnect the ext reg and bridged the white blue with the white black.

b310 mentioned doing this swap and using the yellow wire to bridge earlier in this thread and also I found this:

evilsim
Home away from home



Joined: 2003/11/29
Posts: 337
Sydney.au

Re: Wiring Woes
Quote:
is it true that L series engines have internal regulators

no the engine doesnt have it the alternator does.
remove the stock 1200 regulator. you have to connect (with a piece of wire) two of the wires which went into the regulator. the two linked on mine are - the yellow wire and the red/white wire. leave the rest alone.* doing this should kill the warning lamp in your cabin. so long as you have a nice big wire from the alternator b+ to your battery+ you should be ok.
before you do this just make sure your alternator IS internally regulated.. u can usually see the unit on the back of the alternator, if u remove the small black box from the back u should see the brushes underneath.
have fun with L series power
*if anyone knows something useful for the remaining wires plz say

So, you unplugged the external regulator?

what's the spec for ac volts that tells you when the alternator is shot? Mine's got 30 VAC, and I think the spec is 15...

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I think I have a somewhat similar problem.





I hope this is crear enough so see whatever you need too. Now the quick story. Car was getting harder and harder to start and thought it was the alternator, so I pulled the one out of the vanette. before I put it on however, I started the car with the 1200 on disconected and for about 30 seconds the car was great. Anyway after I connected the 1500 one and jumpstarted a few times the same thing would happen. Is the 1500 alternator a big no no in this case?

So, I just went out with a meter. When running the car reads 12.7 volts. For about a second, then it drops, I watched it go down to 11.3

Ill keep the charger on overnight so I can get to work tomorrow.

that is bad... your alternator is not charging... my alternator from sentra (B13/14) pumps out 70A get the reading of 14.6V constant when engine is running (abit high :D)

the yellow wire is the s terminal on the alternator. The white/blue and white/black were the wires I bridged.

OK, I took it to the auto electrician today. He said the white/blue white/black bridge was wrong. He bridged the yellow to ignition from elsewhere on the harness, as he suspected that there was a break in the ignition wire at the regulator connection somewhere.

Finnaly I can sleep at night now.

Hi Keith, glad to hear it's working now. It sounds like you have a bad wiring harness.

I'll double-check tomorrow which wires I have connected where, and get a pic maybe. I'm using a 1980 alternator (B310/210) from A15 type engine.

When I first got my 1200 motor (with Lucas 15ac alternator) I decided that it would be a good idea to put a relay to the coil to avoid dodgy old wiring through ignition switch - anyway- it made the car run on after turning the key off. I traced the problem to be a sneak from the alternator. I wired a diode into the leads from the alternator so current only flowed one way. It occured to me later that someone had removed the regulator which I think from memory has diodes in it and would have prevented this continous running after key removal.

A different problem but no doubt very similar.

OK, I checked out underhood on my 1200, and I'm using the WB and WR wires. Sorry to have steered you wrong. I've put a photo of it in the Photo Album.

I've updated the B110 Wiring article with the corrected Alternator info -- now with photos and wiring diagram.