So, I just went out with a meter. When running the car reads 12.7 volts. For about a second, then it drops, I watched it go down to 11.3

Ill keep the charger on overnight so I can get to work tomorrow.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I think I have a somewhat similar problem.





I hope this is crear enough so see whatever you need too. Now the quick story. Car was getting harder and harder to start and thought it was the alternator, so I pulled the one out of the vanette. before I put it on however, I started the car with the 1200 on disconected and for about 30 seconds the car was great. Anyway after I connected the 1500 one and jumpstarted a few times the same thing would happen. Is the 1500 alternator a big no no in this case?

So, you unplugged the external regulator?

what's the spec for ac volts that tells you when the alternator is shot? Mine's got 30 VAC, and I think the spec is 15...

Yeah Im really stumped now. Last nite I was driving home and the engine just died. The electrical was still present.
I tried to start the car but no clicky no cranky. But I had the control to turn off the car, albeit just the electrical, but it wouldnt shut down before either.

I pushed the car home, luckily only about 3-4 blocks, and started looking for loose wiring. when I grabbed the starter wire something in the car on the other side of the firewall started clicking when I moved the loom. Every time I move it , click.

I managed to islolate where I suspected the fault to be, un taped the loom but it all looked fine. Put the wire back on the starter and she started up.

Today, driving home I thought "boy the electrical seems docile today". Compared to the other day when everything was popping, dash lites, heater fan etc. It seemed like it had gone back to how it was before the alt swap.

During the drive home I watched the dash lites get dimmer and dimmer, then the radio started cutting out again, the it was like every thing electrical was almost dead.

Stopped at a store for a minute and it wouldnt start up.

Shes not charging.

Like I said before I did disconnect the ext reg and bridged the white blue with the white black.

b310 mentioned doing this swap and using the yellow wire to bridge earlier in this thread and also I found this:

evilsim
Home away from home



Joined: 2003/11/29
Posts: 337
Sydney.au

Re: Wiring Woes
Quote:
is it true that L series engines have internal regulators

no the engine doesnt have it the alternator does.
remove the stock 1200 regulator. you have to connect (with a piece of wire) two of the wires which went into the regulator. the two linked on mine are - the yellow wire and the red/white wire. leave the rest alone.* doing this should kill the warning lamp in your cabin. so long as you have a nice big wire from the alternator b+ to your battery+ you should be ok.
before you do this just make sure your alternator IS internally regulated.. u can usually see the unit on the back of the alternator, if u remove the small black box from the back u should see the brushes underneath.
have fun with L series power
*if anyone knows something useful for the remaining wires plz say

Yes, agreed.

Keith, I did the conversion recently, took the photos and created the Tech Section article. Make sure you unplug the external regulator, and leave it unplugged. If you've already done that, let me know, and I'll review the article and my 1200 and make any needed corrections.

At the six plug connector, find the wire that goes to the s terminal on the alternator, bridge it to either the ignition feed, battery +, or you can leave it off, after trying all three options you will find about 0.2 of a volt difference. you don't want your voltage anything over 14.7 volts at any time.

So, after running the car after a day the difference in apparent voltage is amazing. The lights are brighter the wipers run faster the radio doesnt cut out, the cigarette lighter pops out 5 times faster, the heater dries my eyes out in minutes.

On the down side, the car is running a bit rougher in the low end and obviously the not being able to turn off the car without popping the hood is a real pain in the boot.

If anyone has done this conversion and knows what I, and the tech section here doesnt, please let us know.

I recommend this conversion highly as I have gone through 3 regulators none of which have supplied the correct voltage. 2 of which over charged at over 15.7 volts.

OK, I bridged the White Blue and the White Black wires and put the alternator back in.

The CHG light now stays off. Good.
The car still wont kill when the key is turned. Bad.

hmmm.

Easy wiring fix: Datsun 1200 WiringQuote:

yes,thats completely normal.the ignition circuit is still getting power through the 2 regulators.
you can fix the problem by disconnecting the external regulator,then running a wire between 2 of the wires.i can't remember what two they
are,but i seem to remember they are small diameter yellow.i've done the conversion three or four times,always no problems.