Feral,
Can you see any problem with having the engine sitting near horizontal, I've looked at oil drainage/return. I"ll be putting a "wing" on the side of the sump to compensate for any volume I have trimmed off the original profile.
Gary

At the moment I am modifying the sump to lower the engine so as to have the motor sitting at 1deg neg.(gearbox output lower) and the pinion angle at 1 deg neg. (with no passengers in the car) so when the pinion angle is in its working degrees (1 deg neg- 0 deg) I will be in the optimum set up to achieve a good "phase".

I have a double jointed tailsharft in my dirt car, It's out of a 180B ( wagon I think ) It's the same length as all the other a series tailsharfts and I had to use it cause the car is an auto and a 180b man spline fits an a series auto. Hi-tech and I didn't even know it.
So there

Yeah,
A good article. The velocity change in a uni is not commonly known, but as they say in the article, it is very important to get the phasing correct so both joints are increasing and decreasing speed at the same rate, at the same time. I have never thought of it in terms of flywheel blts but you could be onto something here .


To remove a lot of the angular change, some luxury saloons (300C ) and 4WD'S use a double Cardan joint (double cojoined iniversals) at each end of the shaft. This halves the joint angle experenced by each joint. These are a smoother tougher drive shaft but are very expensive to make.

Been researching on the net about driveline angles and come accross this article.

I've noticed that a few members have had the problem of flywheel bolts coming loose, maybe this might have something to do with it.

Gary

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/driveline.html