the bias between front and rear is for differing weather conditions.You want to have more bias on the front in the dry and there is more braking force on the front due to extra grip and the car therefore pitches more,unloading the rear more. You need to take braking power off the rear in those conditions cause its alot easier to nip the rear wheels the more thay are unloaded. So in the wet you want to drive the bias towards the rearas grip is less available on the front therefore less dive and the rear is better grounded.

converted.............

theres talk here about mechanical bias AND hydraulic bias.

the bar does the mechanical bias, the brake bias valve adjusts the balance hydraulically..

both do what Converted mentioned.

from memory the hydraulic method is sh ite. it introduces something called hysteresis into the braking system. I'm not fully oiled on this...it has something to do with a hydraulic delay occuring when the brake pedal is released?????????????(or it takes a split second longer for the brakes to activate)

Why do you need both???????? I'm sure the store preson wants you to buy both, but since they both do the same thing, and one has a huge disadvantage...you may be better of with only the bar.

Forget the brake bias valve craig, you wont need it and it is just extra plumbing to worry about.

The balance bar is the best option - stick with that. It's just as simple and easy to adjust as the bias valve too - just go with one.

Mark.

A couple of pics of fitting....this is to my Sunny though.

Test install with Girling MC. Crossbar from rollcage was in the way, so we went for short AP MC's in the end. ($$$$$)




Bolted in place with AP MC's



Before Fitting